The Last Desert Blogs 2008

Mark Bishop

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The Last Desert (2008) blog posts from Mark Bishop

03 December 2008 07:09 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

Well after finishing stage 4 with a bang we were told that we should expect another short’ish stage in the afternoon – this posed a small issue in that most competitors kit was wet and to be honest although the distances do not seem great they comfortably equate to at least double the distance in average conditions – something we have not been experiencing – and we have had little time to recuperate. A suggestion to Zac seemed to seal the deal and we were given “the afternoon off” to kayak or go ashore. For that everyone was eternally thankful.

The setting in Paradise Bay is something to be seen – mountains with great glaciers falling into the ocean, icebergs floating around, and penguins all around you. It really and truly was paradise – not to say I would move there in a hurry!

Off then to Deception Island (the sunken volcano) and Half moon Island – all would have gone according to plan had it not been for the weather! A long story short is that we were challenged by a force 8 hurricane (!) with swells from 5m to 14m!!! Words cannot describe what the conditions were like save to say that in some places they were downright terrifying! There was absolutely no option to get into the crater of Deception Island and no way to off load the zodiacs to beach on Half Moon Island … so the painful decision was eventually made that the race was over! Paul had won the evnt with Dean winning the series. It was a sad ending to a great exploration and adventure but as we now all know, nothing is predictable in Antarctica!


The start of the journey back to Ushuaia had therefore begun, but in the extreme weather as described above – our small boat tossed and bucked like something wanting to escape the attack of the waves. Dinner ended up all over the kitchen floor, people were getting ill but as per usual there were the bullet proof lot that made their way to the bar and drowned an element of fear – accompanied by the usual raucous behavior and laughter.


Sleeping was a major problem as it was extremely difficult to just get back to ones cabin – and then the fear of the possibility of being tossed out of your bunk by the motion of the boat. The cabin was also a mess what with all ones good scattered with gay abandon around the cabin from the force of the boats movements. I think that I have seen and done enough sailing for ever! We are going slower because of the weather and so only expect  to get to Ushuaia on Thursday! Maybe the ticket to BA on the 6th was not such a bad option after all.


What an adventure we have had – still 320 nautical miles to go to the Beagle Channel for a more sedentary sail into port. I am looking forward to that.

Thanks to all those that helped – my family and friends, Cape Storm for the kit, New balance for the shoes, Global Plus for the sat phone and to all the others that I have not mentioned. Also to all those that sent e mails and comments on the blogs – thank you!

And so from the middle of an extremely rough Drake Passage on our way home I say mission accomplished

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01 December 2008 06:25 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

The morning was spent at a Ukrainian research base, the poor people had been there since February and were only being replaced in March 2009! They arrive with all fuel and provisions for a year! You have to be of a certain mind set for that!

Having said that we are called the “crazy people” when we are addressed on the boat!

Well could we have prepared ourselves for stage 3: Petermann Island? I think not – visibility limited, snowing, windy and wet! All the ingredients for a VERY tough stage. I had done my knee in on stage 2 … things were not looking good so all I had to do was hang in there and hope the time and distance would go by with great speed … not so. It felt like an eternity … EVERYTHING was wet … my feet were saturated and ice cold, I couldn’t breathe with the balaclava over my face, it is but so claustrophobic and to add insult to injury my goggles kept on misting up – so much for double lenses etc etc….

Anyway I ground out a fair distance under the circumstances – and anyone out there reading this has to understand that 18 odd km’s in these circumstances has to equate to 30-35 km under “normal” circumstances. The going is snow up to your knees, sometimes your waist which eventually gets compacted down to a semblance of a path … and then the path starts to cave in so you’re back to knee height snow, and so it continues. The wind chill factor must take the temp down a good -10-15 deg C … I have no idea what the temp was but everyone was wet and cold! There were many times where one had to stop to allow penguins to pass … they own the land and one has to pay great respect to these creatures. As one ran around the course one could hear the crack of icebergs that surround the island, it’s quite an eerie sound. Eventually Paul came out on top … only to almost fall foul of hypothermia on the way back to the boat on the zodiac (which by the way has a note on the side of the engine “This way up”!)We loaded him into the shower the minute we got aboard and “resuscitated” with good effect – thank heavens for that! The one thing you do not do down here is mess with the conditions – they are extreme and severe and they will punish you quickly and ruthlessly.

We were woken this morning at 4.30! And all for stage 4 … which we eventually started at 7am! Hell we may even have had an extra 1 hours sleep! Anyway this stage was for me the best so far … and was great for the knee – no hills at all, just gentle gradients with a loop of about 1,3km. Initially it was virgin snow well above the knee … but then slowly slowly the path took shape. I had a great day and had a great run – I hope the results will do the effort justice! Once again penguins on the course, great views across the bay of icebergs, and for some tourists on the boat, kayaking amongst them.

Sim (my wife) was followed by a “waddle” of penguins swimming next to her in her kayak! They had visited Port Lockroy – a post office in the Antarctic! We never got to see that as we were running like maniacs!


So it’s now off to Deception Island (the sunken volcano! Eat your heart out Tashy!) but only after we have visited Paradise Bay … we were supposed to run a short stage but no one has dry clothes or kit so we have been let off the hook. I do have a feeling though that we may suffer a little tomorrow! Some of us are going onto shore to see what’s up on the island, some are going kayaking. Good fun, a good supper cooked under the supervision of Yan (who is the man to get to know – he has the keys to the bar!) and then to bed.


16 hours sailing and we should be there … I look forward to the swim.

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30 November 2008 05:50 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

SIMMIE ON MARKIE'S BLOG

SATURDAY 29TH NOVEMBER 2008

ANTARCTICA

 

Hello to all of you from a misty and spectacular Antarctica . This place just gets more and more breathtaking the deeper south we travel. Here the waters are pretty calm and we navigate our way through a water surface littered with little icebergs and floating pieces of ice. Meanwhile the racers are doing fantastically after a really hectic first day. Markie was AMAZING yesterday. Just got stronger and stronger each hour. He was clearly loving every moment of this. I had the chance to go kayaking yesterday and that was awesome. I was pretty nervous about toppling over into the ice cold sea, but it was no problem. Every now and again a glacier falls away and topples into the water giving one a few unexpected waves… and the penguins bop around the kayak like playfull kids. Saw a few Minkie whales as well as the biggest seals I've ever seen in my life! Today looks like a later start as I think we first pull up at a research station and only then will we start setting the course. This is the most pristine place imagineable and I can't express just what a privilege it is to be here. Without a doubt the most extraordinary place one can contemplate visiting in lifetime. All for now, love you all and really looking forward - - more than you can imagine – to seeing the girls in Buenos Aires . Simmie.

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30 November 2008 05:45 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

Saturday 29 November.

 

It is Saturday morning, 29 November but that has very little relevance out here. I apologise if my blog was fairly rushed last night but I was very tired. We are navigating down the Lamaire Channel and have just squeezed through a narrow section that is only passable at this time of year.The ship is having to break some ice and the sound of lumps of ice bouncing off the hull is quite scary. Huge cliffs and glaciers on either side are quite magnificent and words fail to describe the raw, wild and beautiful scenery. We are not racing today until 2.00pm and it is now 8.00am so I think I may go and lie down for a while. The second day is always tough! There is a huge amount of snow so it is proving very difficult to set courses in anything but deep snow. If you are reading the website you probably know more about the distance we raced and the race positions than we do as we have no access to internet. Life on board has gone from eating and waiting to getting as much rest as possible and trying to dry all our race clothes. Every one got quite burnt on the first race yesterday and we are all walking around with sunglass shapes on our faces. I feel more confident about what to wear during the race because the balance between warmth and overheating and getting soaked with sweat is important to master. We have just heard that the race today will be a 7 hour stage so that is going to prove quite a challenge. I hope the ankle holds up.

 

We are sailing to a Ukranian research station on Peterman Island and then back to the course location somewhere on the mainland.

 

I will try and blog again after the race or the next morning.

 

Thank you again for all your emails.

 

Brenda, Nicola, Ben and Emma I miss you all and send my love. UK Sawyers thank you for the messages and yes I will be boring you with photos at Christmas.

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30 November 2008 05:43 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

Race Day 1 was welcomed with the news that we would have 2 stages! The first stage in the morning on Cuverville island was everyones (bar for a few) first taste of running in the snow. Obviously there has been some hectic snowfalls this year and thank goodness I am not in the front of the pack – knee deep and sometimes even hip deep snow …. The first couple of loops were VERY difficult … and then things started to settle down and the pace quickened and the race was on.

 

Not having gortex shoes probably has not been a good move but none the less head down … thank heavens before I put my shoes o I put I a toe warmer into each shoe … at one point it felt like I was burning up from my feet but that did not last long and did keep the feet thawed to a point. By the end of the stage I could not feel my toes at all and was worried that I may have frost bite – but I did not, thank heavens.

 

The scenery for stage 1 was fantastic – we ran on a raised “plateau” on the island with thousands of penguins and giant petrels looking on. These creatures have no fear of humans and the rules are that they have right of way … imagine coming to a stop to let these little creatures pass within 5m of you. I know my kids would go berserk. One overlooked a huge bay with ice bergs floating in it – the colours ranged from white to ice blue with touches of turquoise – absolutely beautiful and all to the sound of the penguin rookeries – heaven! And then on the way back to the boat after the stage to being followed for a short distance by penguins swimming alongside our zodiac – they really are different creatures in the water and swim with amazing speed and agility.

 

Anyway back to the boat for a well deserved shower and lunch which was devoured with great gusto as you can all imagine. One just has no idea how much one sweats in an event like this, what with being in the snow and all. I could literally ring out my running tights and shirt, the loss of liquid could be a problem for some competitors because one does not feel like taking in liquid probably because of the cold. We have also commandeered the ships boiler room to dry our clothes – there are shirts, socks and other paraphernalia covering the boiler room.

 

And then came stage 2 in Neko “harbour” … a longish loop with a serious climb up the side of the mountain to the top of the loop – the bonus was the view from the top. At one point I spotted minke whales frolicking in the waters of the bay. Again the snow conditions were extreme but we managed. Dear Zac sent me on my last loop only for me to find out that I just made the cutoff for that loop so I was last man home from the loop – not on the stage … and then back to the boat. Everyone was seriously bushed at the end of the day, certainly no jovialities I the bar area and early to bed for all. I have a slight niggle in the right knee but the taping that Paul did seemed to have done the job on this stage – have to get more of that for tomorrow. I do hope that we don’t have to do 2 stages tomorrow – that would be a very bleak situation for all!

 

I cannot explain the scenery and wildlife in any other way that to say WOW! I think that anyone coming to this wonderful place could never do it justice in any explanation and description. So off to bed with the excitement of what tomorrow will bring!

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27 November 2008 06:19 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

what a busy part of the ocean … there just seems to be so much going on. We are being followed by albatrosses, giant petrels and small puffy cape petrels – amongst others. It is quite amazing being so far from shore and yet the birds are with us.

And then there they were the Hump Backed Whales – 3 or 4 of them and the skipper just turned off the engines and we wallowed in the ocean with these amazing creatures slowly making their way towards us … and then it was the most intimate time with the whales nudging up to the hull of the boat and frolicking in the water alongside. They would come up with their heads out of the water almost as if saying hello or trying to get a glimpse of what was happening on deck. We must have had about 1hr with these amazing creatures … and then we were on the way again... and they were gone…gentle giants of the ocean.

We are truly eating up a storm (excuse the pun) but we truly are …we are going to have to run it off …haha

Still another 250 nautical miles to do to our first stage …we should get there early tomorrow morning and I have the feeling that we may well be woken up very early tomorrow morning to get onto the zodiacs (small rubber boats) for the journey to shore…and then onto our first stage. Most of the runners are now ready to go and are eager to set out …there is not much area to run on this boat  …Harold did do 15 laps of the boat (might have got up to a kilometer) this morning!

 We did the final briefing on the race – got our race bibs and numbers (mine is 5) and signed off all the necessary documents, then got a briefing on the zodiacs and Sim went to a briefing on kayaking! This could be great fun paddling between the icebergs and animals of this amazing region.

Well I need to go and freshen up for dinner! Have taken some amazing shots today and now need to wrap the head around going to race tomorrow!                       

OK HI THIS IS SIMMIE NOW….. AND GUESS WHAT…..I JUST WAT TO SAY ONE THING!!!!!!!!!

I am simply having the TIME of my life!!! This is the most extraordinary experience imaginable and we havent even arrived at icebergs, glaciers, seals and penguins yet.

The whole experience on the boat (yes boat – it certainly isn’t a ship!!) is incredible, right from the hole at the start to the mind blowing ballet performance a pod of humpback whales gave us today. I am sure Markie has told you about that but all I can add is that it was the most unbelievably intimate experience that must have gone on for at least an hour ad right next to the boat. The Racing The Planet team are amazing and this is special time with very special people who are like-minded souls.

Yes the G and T is alive and kicking and believe it or not they even have South African vino on board (I however have opted for a very pleasant French Sauvignon Blanc). The Russian crew are superb and its Nasdarovia (sp???) all way round. I keep looking around me and finding it impossible to imagine where we are – in the middle of nowhere en route to the most pristine continent in the world.

I have registered for the Kayak team which means the opportunity of getting up real close to seals, penguins, whales, icebergs, glaciers etc. We have just had the safety briefing and they tell us that the big thing is not to fall into the water. If you do tip, then you freeze I two minutes, however before you freeze try and get out of the kayak so that you don’t drown under the boat, and if you do get stuck under the boat, and if you haven’t frozen yet, then please keep your hands inside the skirt of the boat to avoid them being chomped by a passing leopard seal!!!!! I thing maybe I should race instead!!haha!!

Anyway my breaking news is that I am going out with the front course setters very early tomorrow morning and will be setting the course on untouched, pristine ice/snow etc. Cant wait – am soooo excited, am insanely happy, and think that for Markie and I we are just really getting the taste of adventure…. You aint seen nothing yet!!!!

Cant wait to see you all and tell you first hand about this experience….and of course…about sucking the bone marrow out of this incredible life!!!

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Posted On: 28 Nov 2008 05:41 pm

i am so jealous! oh my word i cannot believe that you saw whales! lucky things! well all i can say is DAD BE SAFE, DONT CHASE PENGUINS AND HAVE FUN and MUMMY PLZ DONT FALL IN THE WATER!!! well i love you both so much and cant wait to see you! much love and big hugs and kisses. love tashy pooh xox

26 November 2008 06:31 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

Finally we get the go ahead to depart … with much jubilation we set sail for the adventure of a lifetime. Into the beagle channel and all is well – the going is smooth and quick.

Life boat drill was something that had to be done but hopefully that will be the only time that we have to do it … certainly the life vests were not designed with comfort in mind … and the life rafts are designed as some sort of human sardine tin! I don’t know if all of us could put up with the cramped quarters, the lack of standing space, and elbows, legs and life vests all vying for the restricted place inside the closed cramped quarters!

No one to my knowledge got out of hand last night – the anticipation of the drake passage foremost in everyone`s mind. Even in the depths of fitful slumber one was awakened by the sudden rolling and pitching motion of the boat as we entered “the drake”. I think that most had a good nights sleep. It was interesting to see all at breakfast this morning … everyone looking expectantly at each other to find out how one was coping with the passage. The weather forecast predicted winds up to grade 7 in places and within the next 12 hours the wind factor would rise to a force 8 gale and that the seas would become rough!!! Enough said…

Most people have patches behind their ears and are popping some sort of medication in anticipation… so far so good … the dosage seems to be working – I might become a sailor yet!

Life on the boat consists of eating, sleeping, drinking tea, talking @#%& to the mates, then eating, sleeping, drinking tea and talking @#%& to the mates, eating …….we are all looking forward to stretching our legs on the first stage!

Sim (my wife) has positioned herself in the bar with her G’n’T after the albatross flew over (the new catch phrase for a drink)…and is as happy as a pig in the proverbial …what can I say! Good for some!

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Posted On: 27 Nov 2008 07:07 am

Good luck Mark and Sim, you guys are amazing, addicted and gutsy, Doing the Atacama 2010, would love to get your email and talk, Cheers hamish

25 November 2008 09:33 am (GMT-05:00) Bogota, Lima, Quito

Okay, so the hole requires repair. Divers have been down and have plugged outside the boat, and now they have to cement the inside ... off to the bar for a briefing and, and, and....

Well needless to say the trifecta boys ably supported by James and barman Peter got to work on the open bar ... and then came Paul ... the secret seven were intact (i was refraining as Martyn had told me that in order to attempt to survive the passage i needed to take care on the alcohol intake!) - not so the shifty six! With great gusto and somewhat gay abandon they set about the open bar ... and what a party! By the end of it Frank was paying for all the trifecta team as well as James and Peter to enter Namibia!!! And with many a sway and plenty videos for standard operational proof, (and Franks camera would not operate without the mandatory 17 shakes!) all was set down in concrete - Paul then joined with some girlie glass of Tia Maria ... and the stage was set for a wicked evening ahead. Barman Peter mixed many a concoction (NEVER remembering the mixture order or quantity!) and proceeded to supply with great aplomb the ever deteriorating crew ... much laughter was had by all, and in the end no one could understand what Frank (the ¨tank¨) was talking about, Paul was holding on for dear life, James was after some crinkly Aussie, Hully was trying to record as much evidence for prosterity and Peter was trying his hand at glass demolition and further seriously heavy handed concoctation! I gapped it!

Paul finally came into the cabin and without letting on to too much defamitory information finally inflated his matress and grabbed his sleeping bag to bed down in the cramped quaters of the toilet for the night - peace at last!

Dawn broke and after a cup of coffee and a breakfast we set out at about 10.30 for a ¨small¨5km jog under the austere management of Dave. Well what should have been a liesurely jog turned out to be a fight for survival and ended after 12,5 km! Forests, rivers fields of deep mud, bogs, brush and anything else that could have been thrown at us in the short space of time that we had, was ... but immense fun was had by all and we finally made our very dirty way back to the boat adn straight into the lunch being served ... Paul is a maniac, copious litres of booze, an uncomfortable evening in the loo and off on a 12,5km ¨jog¨the mext morning with no apparent side effects of the previous night. An antarctic legend in his own right.

We bumped into Sim, Harold and Martyn winding theior merry way up into the mountains in search of the glacier ... they are going off to have lunch in town later.

The thing that is beginning to worry be though, is that we could seemingly have run out of booze on the boat BEFORE we put out to sea! We have not left yet as the divers now have to weld a plate on the outside of the hole before any action can take place inside the boat! We will know at 6pm if all is well although we are all confident that come hell or high water we ARE all going south! This is turning out to be some adventure. 

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24 November 2008 03:37 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

Well ok - this is the one way to let the world know how the hell we are getting along ... well ... here goes.

After 3 wonderful days in BA we boarded the flight to Ushuaia (sp?) - the most southerly city/town in the world! When you land it is as if you are going to land in the Beagle Strait! The flight before us had some heavy weather - rather wind - the "north wind" that caused the plane to pitch and drop and sway severly from side to side  - needless to say we (the competitors) had our first "casualty" and Laura could not hold in the great empinadas any more ... but everyone landed safe and sound and proceeded to go to their respective hotels. Days have been spent getting final equipment, eating up a storm and getting to know anyone that one had not previously had the pleasure of meeting. Spirits are running high in the expectation of the crossing of the Drake Passage and the event ahead.

Simmie is spending up a storm and all in all we are well  and eager to get on with it!

The secret 7 - 7 lunatics including team trifecta and James in the boot of the car! went off to take a run in the national park all cramped into Pauls rented car. At the gate the authorities wanted us to pay per person to get in ... and soon realised that there were 7 of us in a VW Polo! ... we turned around and ran past the golf course ... saw a fox and then caused havoc in cheering a VERY average sliced drive by one of the golfers ...

Today we met at 2pm to proceed down to the boat - which was not the one that we were told it originally was - and it looks much better. But optical illusion is such that as we neared the boat it got smaller and smaller!!! It is NOT BIG!

We walked through town like some celebrity procession to the customs area and boat, all kitted out in our Racing the Planet jackets and looking awefully "jooge". The temperature is great and the sky is an unbelievable blue.

Onto the boat and into our cabin 413(!) (13 and 8 again!) - i am sharing with Paul who truly is an MC for those that know what that is! Briefing in the bar - champagne and eats ... only to be told of the SMALL hiccup ... a hole! Needs repair - what an adventure to start with ... so gives me time to catch up on the blog!

But the passage and the Antarctic awaits us ... when shall we leave? At the moment it looks like 5am tomorrow morning!  Hope we get off thats all everyone wants - the tourists on the boat must think we are not well ...

We are well stocked in our cabin ... speakers for the MP3 players and laptop ... plenty snacks ... biltong and sausage ... and of course the coup de grace ... Pauls coffee machine! Are we going to have fun or what! And we can open our port hole! Fresh air....!!!

So whilst the management run around frantically trying to sort out the hiccup we are all haveing a grand time ... eating (again!) and generally slothing around ... time to go!

To the kids - we miss you ... the the other MC´s - wish you were here, speak soon!

 

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