The end of the rest day featured a treat of watermelon and nan bread. The way everyone hobbled around camp after the Long March made the place look like a combat zone, or a zombie film. I asked Hugo how his feet were, and his deadpan response was "The Doctor took a photograph, so that's never a good sign".

Final day started with people chucking away as much as they could do lighten packs for the last 15km. Tent photographs done, we started off on what in ordinary circumstances would have been a pretty easy run for most. But after 6 days of punishment, merely wandering to the next tent was not a pleasant experience for the feet and legs. Still, the prospect of beer and pizza at the other end seemed to power me along and I made it in around 2 hours. 

The final stretch was one of the best moments of the whole thing. Partly, of course, because the end of the whole ordeal was in sight, but mostly because of the little Uighur kids who ran along with me receiving High Fives. They would accelerate in front of me, hold their hands out in a line, and laugh delightedly as we slapped palms. Then after dropping back they'd race ahead and repeat the process. The finish line was at a local school I raced past the line of waiting kids with my hand out, high-fiving them as I went, and saw Cox waiting at the finish line with a big grin and  a beer. Fantastic. All very emotional for many. One guy got engaged. The biggest cheers were for the stragglers who endured the toughest race of all by being out on the course much longer than others. Particular kudos goes to the Japanese gentleman who took about six hours to complete the stretch on account of his obliterated feet. Spiderman walked him in as he hobbled home. 

Final point to note was that in Kashgar, Cox and I saw the most extraordinary thing. An old lady hobbled into the hotel lift with her family. Extraordinarily her feet had been bound. They had the tiniest little triangular shoes on. She must have been 100 years old. Can't be many of those left in China.

Before I go into that though, I'd like to say a big thank you to everyone who emailed, sent Homer Simpson quotes, goat jokes etc. It gave me a big lift.

 

Secondly, from memory of the last time I looked at the website in Kashgar, the photo on my blog page may be a case of mistaken identity. If you can see someone very athletic in all their racing get up, then that is not me. This raises the alarming prospect that my picture is gracing someone else's blog. To that person I can only apologise. If that person is a lady, well...words fail me.

 

Back to the race. We woke up at the campsite around 5.30, an hour earlier than usual, as we were getting bussed to the startpoint. Lots of overhydrated runners stuck on slow moving buses for two hours was not ideal. It was, though, a relief to say goodbye to the campsite. I have no idea what had happened to the cows that all too clearly had been the previous inhabitants, but they remained there in smell and spirit. Moving about was like picking through a minefield, and it was only exhaustion that allowed me to sleep with my face about one foot from a cow pat.

 

With bladders explosively emptied on arrival at the start point, the Long March began. The setting was a beautiful broad plain, criscrossed with rivers, most of them dry, and fringed by a brown/gold ring of mountains with another outer snow-capped range (the Kunlun) in the distance. Beats the treadmill any day. I started at a healthy clip, but at Checkpoint 3 my ITB went. I mulled the prospect of limping for 50 km, and hobbled on. About five minutes after that I hit my low point for the day, when I fell into a river. It was hardly a big one, but I was too tired to jump far enough. I reached the opposite bank, but the ground I landed on crumbled and I slid back down into the water. With both feet soaking and my knee in pain, this was potentially a big toys out pram moment. So I set my jaw, reached for an industrial quantity of painkillers, and set off up the road again. After that, it got better. The good thing about pain in lots of different places, is that the mind can only focus on one at a time. So when the knee hurt, I forgot about the feet, when the feet hurt, I forgot about the shins etc.

 

Mercifully, it clouded over. A gale blew up, and some rain even began to come down. This felt much better. I ploughed on, and then managed to jog/shuffle about 10 km, a lot of it downhill, with gravity helping . When the sun came out again, it was later in the day, and some of the heat had gone. I was heading East, with the sun behind me. No sign of life out there apart from the odd runner ahead in the distance and a herd of goats on a far away hillside. My shadow ahead of me was weirdly welcome company, and the iPod pumped away. Best song: Bruce Springsteen "Long Way Home". Least motivating song that came up on shuffle : Dusty Springfield "The Look of Love". Didn't really do the business, that one.

 

Made it back to camp just after nightfall on a heady Nurofen/Paracetomol cocktail, with Paul from my tent setting a cracking pace back in. So made it in under 14 hours. Pretty happy with that. All of Tent 13 had a good day. Cox had another strong one. I think we have given a reasonable account of ourselves out here. To put my time into perspective,  the leaders came in around nine hours! No idea how those guys do it.

 

Was thinking of a few top tips for anyone dumb enough to be considering doing this.

1. Unless you are a serious racer or total weight Nazi, then do bring Crocs rather than the hotel slippers that some wear around camp. Very pleasant to put aching feet in Crocs at the end of the day. The ground is very stony, and I have seen several pairs of hotel slippers disintegrate.

2. Avoid Rough Country gaters. May mine rot in hell. Severe bruising on the shin and  days of needless pain is all I got out of that particular purchase.

3. Have someone like 70 year old Hutch from HK on the course. A veteran of these things, whom we dubbed Obi Wan. He was a wealth of knowledge, and a constant source of good humour that gave everyone a lift.

4. The nozzles on the Raidlight bottles are rubbish. They kept coming off. A real pain and a waster of water as it spurted everywhere.

5. Don't bother with Expedition Foods breakfasts. Almost no one seems to like them. Noodles all the way!

 

Must go now to wash clothes in a stream. Have not washed in a week, and I smell atrocious. Fortunately I have not been able to see myself for a week either. Looking forward to a hot shower, and a cold beer in Kashgar tomorrow. 15 km to go. Hoping my feet work by then. Cheerio!

Day 4 done! Started up to Shipton’s Arch. Largest free standing blah blah, no time for that now! Climb up involved narrow defiles, and a variety of  rickety. wooden and metal ladders. High enough for snow on the ground in the parts not touched by the sun. Amazing views from the top, then it was down back the way we had come, for what was supposed to be the hardest stage. I couldn’t run much, but the hills were not too bad for someone used to Hong Kong, and after all the effort, you were awarded with a spectacular view each time. Some of the descents were pretty hairy though. Just very slippery, and I took a few more tumbles. All in the name of fun. After the hills there were just rocks, rocks and more rocks. If I never see another rock again, it’ll be too soon.

 

A few words on my tent. Cox is running a storming race. Really belting along. Also in our tent is Emily Woodland from HK. This is her first RTP event, and she is in the top five women. Two of the other HK guys in the top 20. Banter still excellent.

 

Have to go now as the cybertent is closing. Long March tomorrow. 80km of fun, so will update you as and when I can walk to the computer again.

It's starting to get tougher now. Just finished stage 3, which involved an elevation change of 1200 metres.Our camp at 2600 metres, in a valley, circled by a large herd of goats. Very cute ones, as it happens, but i've not been out here that long yet.

 

The race today started through a village, and lots of cultivated land. Not very desert like, but picturesque. Streets were lined with the local inhabitants, taking a break from their morning routine to watch the 160 odd lunatics charge past with packs on their backs and flappy legionnaire hats on their heads. Despite officially being in China, the population here is over 90% Uighur and muslim. Greetings of Nihao are generally met with indifference, but if you serve up a salaam or two, you get a broad grin and a half bow as you go by.

 

As for pee stops, Dunny, you were right! None today at all. It was b@stard hot, and hiking through dry riverbeds and canyons with no breeze at all, was like being in an oven. Also some brutally rocky ground again today, and some steep ups and downs. Fell on one and went straight into a thorn bush. Nice.  Felt pretty good today though. No new foot issues, but my ITB went within five yards of the finish line, so tomorrow will be painful and slow going. Time for the drugs to come out and work their magic.

 

Tomorrow will be the toughest day in terms of terrain. Given how many people have struggled with the cut off time today, it does not bode well.

 

Off now for some freeze dried shepherd's pie and a snooze. Getting very chilly already. Got my woolly hat on, and my jacket that's flying under an American flag of convenience. More news tomorrow... hopefully.

Last night we slept in Uighur village. No tents. Luxury! Only problem was that with around 180 people in this whole travelling circus, they had only laid on three loos. Or, more specifically, two holes in the ground, and one raised contraption next to the cowshed. That was fine, as long as you didn't mind going about your business under the accusatory glare of a cow.

 

Quite a few of us overhydrated last night, so little sleep was had as either you had to climb over rows of people snoring in their sleeping bags, fumbling around with a head torch, or they had to climb over you.

 

The race started at 8.00, and I overtook spiderman at about 8.15. Heroic effort though. I think he only takes that mask off to sleep. The first part of the course went through a canyon which has been nicknamed Mars owing to the red rock. Pretty stunning stuff. The next stage was through dry river beds, and then we crossed what felt like hundreds of ridges. Pretty tedious and tiring after a while. Some 2 metres high, some 20 metres. Up and down. Yawn. It got worse after that, with incredibly rocky terrain that made the going tough. One of the Americans here, clearly a serious runner, has brought his road shoes from home. They are fine on the trails in the US where he runs, but are getting chewed up badly here. Stephanie (ladies winner of the Nepal race) was sewing up her shoes with duct tape this afternoon.

 

At the end of the rocky section, there was a pretty straightforward 10km along a road. Amazing views, but it was nearing noon, and the sun reflecting off the tarmac made it hot work. Got some joggin in, and quite happy that I finished inside 7 hours. It is baking at the moment, and the tents are still too hot to hang out in. Some people are still coming in, and they look cooked.

 

Not feeling too bad. Got a blister under a callus, that has been taped up and gave me no trouble. Got very painful shins after about 20 km, and it turns out that is dow to my gaiters being too tight for my ankles and lower calves. They got ripped up on thorns today anyway, and have been binned.

 

One of the Hong Kong crowd, Hendo, finished the race today wearing his crocs (blister trouble). Great effort.

 

Oh yes, girls, I saw a herd of about 20 wild camels. Remember the difference between a bactrian and a dromedary?

Right, I left off during the Uighur village welcome party. Not much more to report other than the game of "goat polo". Two opposing teams of horsemen try to wrestle a goat's carcass off each other. Allegedly the progenitor of modern polo, culture vultures will remember it from the critically acclaimed scene in Rambo III when John Rambo wins the trust of the locals. Anyway, enough of that.

 

First night's sleep was pretty good, and we've got a good crowd in the tent with some excellent banter. Shout out to Swanny for the top tip on the inflatable mattress.

 

The start time for stage one of the race was 8.00. Due to swollen rivers, the intended river crossing was unpassable, so we were re-routed. The good news was that the course today was shorter, and the rivers no problem to cross. The bad news is that what we missed today will be added on in the next few days. Cox and I decided to march the whole thing - occasionally breaking into a jog to see how the legs were feeling. Very different to training in Hong Kong. Heat was not too bad, about 30 degrees, and incredibly dry (statement of the blindingly obvious in a desert). So very difficult to tell when you're getting dehydrated. Had force fed myself water for hours, and evidently overdid it, as needed to stop for a pee every few km. Better that way though. Also, feet much drier so more friction and heat. Had to stop to tape up a hotspot - which I think I caught in time. Some more stunning views of the snowcapped peaks to the West - which must be on the Kyrgiz border or just south of there. Apparently they are the far Western arm of the Tien Shan, but not sure about that. Otherwise, the hills here have the most extraordinary mix of colours, from rock that looks pale green, to grey through to brown, gold and a kind of Ayers Rock red.

 

Lara and Chloe, I saw a camel! Two to be precise. Will keep you posted on these. Otherwise, Cox claims to have seen a lizard, but the place was devoid of life apart from us lot as far as I could tell.

 

We did this leg n 5hrs 40 mins. Not bad for a fast walk, but we need to run more if we want to move up the field. Key was to take it easy today though, and see how we held up. All fine, no new injuries, but not sure how long I'll be able to keep the blisters at bay.

In Camp 1. 2 hour bus trip from Kashgar. Stunning scenery> Broad river valleys. Craggy sandstone cliffs. Villages comprising of mud brick houses, rows of poplars, small square fields of wheat and even the occasional grape vines. Lots of waving locals, waving and laughing. Do they know something we don't?

 

The locals inhabitants of the nearby village have turned out in force to greet us. About eight generations worth by the look of it. We have just endured speeches by everyone from the governor of the Kyrigiz Autonomous region downwards, and are now in the throes of a concert. Kyrgiz tunes are being belted out of a sound system that has seen better days, accompanied by one of those plastic yamaha keyboards circa 1985. Correction, the wirting on the keyboard tells me it has been made by the great firm of KORG.

 

All my stuff is laid out in the tent.My inflatable mattress is ready for its baptism of fire. I am at the rear of the tent - taking the view that it was better to climb over everyone in the night when nature calls rather than vice versa. Because we are on Beijing Time, it is effectively noon here around 4.00pm, so the tents are still like furnaces and to be avoided. Nice breeze though.

 

The hardcore athletes seem to be lying down and trying to sleep/meditate/reflect on strategy. The rest of us are milling around socialising. One of the Japanese runners is a professional wrestler apparently, and has come to the Gobi with a Spiderman top and mask. Splendid.

 

Looking forward to the cold pizza for dinner. Race starts tomorrow.

The trip started in style with Cox cruising up in the S-Class that whisked us over the border to Shenzen airport. During the the five hour first leg of the flight we were kept entertained by the synchronised stretching routine led by the highly trained Shenzen Stewardesses, and the fabulous Chinglish auto translations off the in-flight magazine. This contained such no doubt sound advice as "Do not use the WC while the plane is gliding". On the onward fllight from Urumqi we flew over the snowcapped Tienshan mountains, then into Kashgar proper. Managed to get wander in the OLD TOWN. I AM NOW TYPING THIS IN CAPS BECAUSE THE AUTO CORRECT JUST DEFAULTS TO CHINESE OTHERWISE AND IT'S TAKING AGES.NOT SHOUTING.

 FOUND A BAZAAR WITH ROWS OF STALLS SELLING COLOURFUL PILES OF SAFFRON, CLOVES, WALNUTS, ALMONDS, DATES ETC. DINNER WAS A ROADSIDE BOWL OF NOODLES. TOP SIGHT OF THE EVENING WAS SOME HERBALIST GUY TRYING TO SELL HIS SNAKE OIL. TO DEMONSTRATE THE VERACITY OF THE INGREDIENTS (I ASSUME) HE HAD A SQUIRREL IN A CAGE, A HEDGEHOG IN ANOTHER, A SNAKE SLITHERING AROUND ON THE FLOOR, AND A BUCKET SHARED BY ONE LARGE LIZARD AND ABOUT 100 SCORPIONS. 

THIS MORNING HAS BEEN SPENT GETTING BRIEFED AND HAVING KIT CHECKED AND WEIGHED. MY PACK CAME IN AT 10.5KG - WHICH IS AOUT 1.5KG HEAVIER THAN I'D HOPED - BUT MOST OF THE EXCESS IS FOOD. ONLY REAL PAIN WAS HAVING TO SEW ON EXTRA PATCHES TO MY JACKET (LIFELONG INABILITY TO READ INSTRUCTIONS COSTING ME AGAIN). IN THE ABSENCE OF ANY UNION JACKS, I WILL BE AMERICAN IN MY JACKET. NO DISRESPECT INTENDED TO THE LAND OF THE FREE BY MY MISERABLE SEWING EFFORTS. I KNOW THE STARS AND STRIPES IS PROBABLY NOT SUPPOSED TO BE AT A 45 DEGREE ANGLE, BUT WHAT THE HELL...

OFF SOON  FOR THE TWO HOUR DRIVE TO FIRST CAMP. GOING TO FIND SOME PIZZAS FOR SUPPER TONIGHT, AND PUT OFF THE FREEZE DRIED EXPEDITION FOOD EXPERIENCE FOR ANOTHER 24 HOURS. 

THERE ARE SOME PRETTY EXPERIENCED RACERS HERE. SNAKE THIN, AND WITH 6KG PACKS. I LOOK FORWARD TO WATCHING THEM VANISH OVER THE HORIZON TOMORROW.

Well, it all seems very real now, and it's a long time since the cheap talk and beer fuelled bravado that led up to this. It still remains a mystery how no one backed down and how we teetered over the edge into full blown commitment. The constant back and forths on the Hong Kong trail, the runs home in the rain, avoiding squashing frogs and the occasional snake are a thing of the past now. Alan Chu, the great Mong Kok Needler, has impaled my leg for the last time. I still smart at the injustice of suffering from "Runner's Knee" I hate running and have always tried to avoid it. Doesn't seem fair really. 

I have tried to explain this trip to my daughters. They're not really sure what or where the Gobi is. They are, however, terribly excited that I might see a camel.

Cox arrives with the the Shenzen airport taxi early tomorrow morning, and between now and then I can experiment with another fifteen different ways of cramming 8.9kg into a 25 litre backpack. Need a Tardis. Thanks to Chappers, Robbo, and Dunny for all the tips! It's then on to Urumqi and Kashgar - where the delights of the Tianyuan hotel await. It gets three whole stars and a resounding "Average" rating on Tripadvisor! I expect that will seem like unimaginable luxury three days from now. 

A salute too to Knighty. The motivating force behind this venture. He revved us up, sent us on our way, and elegantly ducked out. Raise a glass for us while you cool your boots in the neon watering holes of Beijing!

Next update from Kashgar.

p.s. Is it wrong to start fantasizing about a cold beer before I've even started?