Gobi March Blogs 2010

Todd Flanagan

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Gobi March (2010) blog posts from Todd Flanagan

06 July 2010 05:10 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

Like so many, in recent days I have been internalising events of the last week. Apart from being satisfied with being involved with the Gobi March, I have spent a good deal of time thinking about Nick. Like many of the Shanghai Gang, Nick was an integral part of the group and I got to know him pretty well over the last 8 months of training in the mountains in Hangzhou outside of Shanghai in . Nick wasn't a sportsman, I'm sure he would have been the first to admit it, but he had a zest for an adventure, and for him, this was it. Tragically, it didn't finish the way he or anyone foresaw.
These days I'm pretty sad when I think about him. I see Nick in a lot of the things I'm doing daily in Beijing where I have come to spend a few days resting before heading off on holidays to next week. And that's what makes me sad. My life seems to be going great, and when I think about how great things are, my thoughts keep turning to Nick and I keep thinking this young man should be enjoying things too. I find myself breaking into tears often at anytime of the day. I'm not sure if others feel the same way, but for me Nick represented a lot of what is good in the world. Although sometimes frustrating with his geekiness and lack of ability to organise himself, these things pale into insignificance when we look at the man as a whole and realise if there were more in the world who were like him, maybe we would all breath a little easier and see life as a little less complicated.
I see Nick in life around me all the time at the moment. I constantly recall the things  he did that are just so vivid. He kept us engaged by his ramblings, by his inability to organise himself and in a short period of time, endeared himself to all of us. 
Apart from the myriad of stories that those from Shanghai who trained with him can recall, there are a few things that stand out for me from the 4 days of the Gobi before he was taken from us. 
I recall noting the irony, that while he couldn't organise himself, he was always helping others. He made sure that every Shanghai member had a pair of earplugs, a simple but very helpful piece of equipment, and he was damn pleased with himself for being able to contribute something to the group! Remember his email, 'guys, my girlfriend works for so and so and she can supply us all with ....' And if that wasn't enough, he took enough pairs for his tent mates on the march and then when I mentioned I knew someone else who was having problems sleeping, he said no trouble, disappeared and came back with a pair for them too. I'm sure if everyone in the camp asked, Nick's pack would have been deep enough to have something for everyone.
And then I recall seeing Nick at the campsite one or two walking around with packets of food, organising swaps when someone stated they had something they didn't like. I recall his words well, 'people have been helping me, I can help a little too.' All this from a guy who needed help, to get just about every item needed for the event! Remember how we joked about  him ringing Campbell about socks and how the story, in good spirits, was nicely embellished to suggest that he was still looking for socks on the day he was supposed to fly to Urumuqi?
I remember having a chat with Nick during the evening of Day 3 at the village. By then, a few of us had run out of battery power for our mobiles but somehow Nick was still functioning. Angus wanted to text his wife and then Allan. I remember walking around camp with Nick as he held his mobile up waiting for a signal, finding it before losing it again, but enthusiastic in wanting to help people again.
The last I saw of him was Day 4. I was taking it easy this day, my energy levels weren't great, and I was at checkpoint 1 when he came in. I remember looking at him and seeing the 'high' spirit he was in, looking into his eyes and thinking 'wow, Nick seems to be going strong, almost too strong.' And typically he was there talking to the doctor saying, "Could you tape my feet please, I can't reach that part of my foot." Again, everyone else was pretty much doing their own blisters but for Nick it was pretty natural that someone help him with his. He was helping others, wasn't it natural that others should help him? Sounds like a reasonable motto for life. It was the last time I saw him.
During the long march, I thought about him from time to time. John and I discussed it from time to time over the the whole walk. 'What if..." never expecting the worst outcome could really eventuate.
I recall the moment I heard the news. I was sitting on the bed in my hotel room and the phone rang and Ellen answered it. I knew right away what it was about and I broke down and didn't want to take the phone. The moment we had all been dreading had arrived and although I had thought about it for 25 hours the day before, you are never ever prepared for news like that when it arrives.
A few of us spent the rest of the evening with Nick's brave brother Andrew and his beautiful girlfriend Fei. Andrew asked a simple question, " How can my brother, a healthy young man go away and not return?" Fei told the story about how Nick had said, 'don't worry, if something happens a helicopter will come and take me a way." Maybe it was to appease her, or maybe he actually believed it. Well afterall, it made sense, if something serious happens, people help don't they? This reflects a little of the naivety that made Nick what he was. Somehow, I think he actually believed that if shit hit the fan, somebody would be there to help.
I can't rationalise why things like this happen. All I know is that Urumuqi in China is referred to in the same way as timbuktu in mine  and some others countries. It's the place that the Chinese refer to be as being the furtherest place from civilisation and where Nick came to grief was even further than that.
There are no answers, sometimes people are called when they are called. 
All I know is that all of us who had our lives touched for what ever amount of time we knew him, whether it be for 31 years, for 8 months, or for 4 days, we are all a little bit richer for the experience, and for all of us involved in the march, Nick's passing will have made our event just that little bit more significant in a macabre way. Even in passing, like the ear plugs and the swapping of food, he is still contributing, assisting us to ensure this experience will never be forgotten. Walk on Nick, your spirit lives with us all. 

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Comments: Total (4) comments

Posted On: 10 Jul 2010 05:55 am

A beautiful eulogy for a tragic loss. I'm running the Sahara in a few months' time so this passing seems like a loss of our very own. Please heal well, Todd.

Posted On: 08 Jul 2010 01:00 pm

I really sorry to hear about Nick pass away. I am the frist one found him. I was stay will him and take care him over half hour until the doctor and staff came up there. I just knew him 2~3 days. but we keep walking together many times. Sometimes is he walk in front of me, sometimes just behind me not far. I took a few photos of him and I told him, he must made a friendship for me. At Stage 3 comp site we talk about how to solve the blister problem. He was a very nice guy. I really want to tell his family and girlfriend Fei, On Nick's last moment his is not alone, I was stay with him and told him don/t scary... I don't know what can I say, but I really want to say Nick's he enjoy a lot of the Gobi trial, everytime when I asked him how is his feeling. He wil say " I am all right, the feeling good..." Anyway, I think everyone know Nick will remember his face, voice forever. Last, I want to sent the photos of Nick to his family and girlfriend. Do you mind reply me at [email protected] I think it is very important for them. Takecare~

Posted On: 07 Jul 2010 09:50 pm

That made me cry. I feel like I got to know Nick through your story. Sounds like he was a wonderful soul. His family and friends are in my prayers.

Posted On: 06 Jul 2010 04:12 pm

Todd - Sorry for your loss, thanks for the insight on who Nick was... Matt

19 June 2010 05:43 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

What they never tell you when you sign up

Well folks, if that little press release from RTP today didn't put things in perspective I don't know what will. What the heck is 'could be hotter than 50 degrees?' supposed to mean. Sorry John, but I had visions of oasis in the deserts and tribal harems delivering foot massages and fanning competitors to sleep in the evening after a Caligula type dining fest. 'Tapping primal needs to push ourselves beyond psychological and physical levels in a grueling way??' Apart from adding more anxiety to a mother who believes that I am more at risk from over drinking water (she watched a 60 Minutes episode) than anything else, surely this must just be an embellishment by over zealous PR people at RTP. Does any one agree? Anyone...
 
Actually apart from writing you a final piece before we head out next week (the final is purely a choice of wording in this case) I  wanted to recount two short stories which happened to me recently and  have become moments of truth. The rest, as they say should merely be a walk in the park - although a rather large one and slightly warmish.
 
Somewhere throughout the training, someone (probably that McKenna guy) suggested that disposable underwear was quite a practical item to use on the event. You know, something that could be easily discarded without having to be displayed on the rear of our back packs drying in the midday sun after using the forbidden water to do our daily domestics. Now I thought this was quite a good idea, and like Nic, it takes me awhile to get around to making sure I've got everything prepared. No offense Nic, some of us like to operate that way, no need to overly concern ourselves before we have to right?
 
Well some weeks ago, I did spot a pair of the said items (disposables!) in the pharmacy at the train station on the way to Hangzhou for training. So I bought, wore, disposed over the few days I was there and of course, finding out that I think I can live with the idea of burying the evidence in the desert rather than risk an hour fine by using my water supply for 'anything other than drinking!! Actually, call me optimistic but I am kind of hoping that one of my 6 discarded pairs may become fossilized and my legacy will go beyond six days. I can just see some future junior archeologist proclaiming on a future dig, "Sir, I think we've found something" What I would really like, is to be around to listen to the explanations provided by future historians as to what they are and how they got there. None of you for a moment should consider that this is not possible. You may live on in infamy.
 
But I digress, back to my story. Well after exhausting one supply of disposables I found myself in need of another set. So rather than travel all the way back to the Shanghainan Station, I decided to pay a visit to the Watsons next door to the Irishman’s Bar in Thumb Plaza in Pudong. (I've moved you see and now I can proudly name two landmarks - a pub and a pharmacy - this has nothing to do with my lifestyle, merely a coincidence) Well after telling the very helpful lady who insisted on following me around the store that "no, its ok, I'm just looking thanks" rather than use my rather limited Chinese in trying to explain what I was looking for and in this instance I really didn't want to play charades and act our what I wanted for obvious reasons, I came across what I wanted - disposable underwear and in the men’s sections can you believe it. I always thought these were only something women used after birth or something of the like. So, feeling a little more educated and somewhat relieved that I didn't have to hang around the women’s section anymore, where I can tell you in recent months when I've been looking for some items, I've started to become very paranoid and think people are watching me in a funny way, I made my way to the counter, proudly (but discreetly at the same time) paid for my purchase and made my way home quickly to examine my latest purchase in greater detail. Good I thought, different colours for each of the days of the week I gathered, absolutely no risk of getting muddled and needing to writing M T W TH F Sa on each pair.
So, taking a leaf out of the Captains book on being prepared, I geared up the next day to give them a workout, A different make and all, and a wise man knows never leave anything to chance. 'Try 'em out' I was thinking. So, without any real regard for my destination or the sage advice of generations of mothers, 'what if you get hit by a bus" I headed to the local Mega Fit gym for my daily swimming routine. This is when things sadly started to go wrong. First of all, I want to know what the hell are people are doing not working on Monday mornings. How can it be that so many people happened to be in the changing rooms at the time I wanted to use it to go swimming? It was about then, I started to realise that I knew I had a good reason for not trusting that helpful women in Watsons who I'm sure had me followed as a potential I don't know what. But anyway, I think you can all imagine how the next scene worked out. Todd, at one moment feeling very confident that fitness is improving, a few laps in the pool is a good way of tapering down in the lead up to the event and so on. The next moment, starting to feel a little bit apprehensive as I disrobe knowing what others don't know at that stage and starting to realise that men’s disposable underwear look a heck of a lot like women knickers and maybe I wasn't in the men’s section of Watsons last night after all. I was madly trying to get my thoughts together of trying to explain when all eyes turned on me in an accusatory way, of being able to say something other than. "Guys, it's not what you think, really. Guys, come on believe me!"
Well, needless to say, I survived that little lot but it still hurts to write about it. And the nice man who hands me the clean towel each day seems to be a little too nice on subsequent occasions.
End of story 1.
 
Story 2 (and I quite understand if you have deleted this by now, but my therapist has told me I should write it down and then burn it whilst stating, 'I am a normal person, and I am evolving as God wanted me too!')
This story like Story 1 is true and could also be entitled 'Revenge' but I am still doing a little more investigation on the matter. As you can see, I have far too much time on my hands these days.
 
This story happened yesterday and the consequence resulted today and the matter is still not resolved. Like Nick, I am still in the process of preparing my equipment. The only items which I haven't got, are additional electrolytes (which Roger has some interesting theories based around suppositories working better as they go straight to your system - you're kidding Roger right?) and gaiters. Well like the rest of you I've been reading the regular anxiety updates from RTP which I'm sure has helped increase their profits lately. So Roger took care of the pills he thinks we need, although I'm still not sure about there being no doping tests on the course Roger and David B (another case of God Bless you David and bloody bad luck to you too mate) offered the use of the gaiters he no longer has use for. So, as you can see, by 11am yesterday, I was done. I was feeling pretty happy about life in general. I took another coffee and was feeling pretty pleased that I had saved a few kwai by having the lady on the street sew my patches and flags on for 20rmb for the whole lot rather than those robbers in Carrefour who wanted 20rmb per patch. Who do they think they are??
 
So I was thinking life was pretty good yesterday as I met with a friend and took a stroll from Thumb Plaza to Jingqiao ( I am doing a lot of distance by walking these days I can tell you) for lunch. That was until I met, quite unexpectedly with Willehard and Jane coming the other way, also out on a 'walk' (but really it was training - you couldn't fool us by not having the walking poles Willehard) Now, a chance meeting of Will and Jane in itself is nothing to be worried about. They are nice people and actually very helpful and quite inspiring. (Although, maybe don't take your solar charger to Will for repair just yet.) But you must remember there is a history documented about their strategies and techniques in an earlier write up and whilst nothing was said, you never quite know if they are happy or not that their secret strategies are out of the bag. And on top of that, with the recent win by Holland, confidence is at an all time high and maybe just right to take an act of revenge or play a practical joke on an unsuspecting Australian who by contrast are a nation completely in despair over the strategy by the Australian coach of, "let Germany win convincingly lads, well have the under dog advantage going into the next game, and we'll wallop every team from here on in until we have the cup firmly in our hands at the end!"
 
So, how is it that a chance meeting with Willehard and Jane could be related to revenge? Well I'll tell you. Stockings! Simply women’s' stockings. As we stood on the bridge being amiable, chatter soon passed from the Cup (there were 3 Dutch present and 1 Australian) to the Gobi Desert March strangely enough. I was recounting the story about gaiters with my amiable friends and the problem I fore saw with using velcrose on my ASICS to attach them. Willehard agreed and it is at this precise psychological moment, when my defenses were down from the recent episode of disposable underwear and Australia's terrible strategy for supreme dominance in the football world, that he mentioned the solution - wear women’s stockings. "Eh?" I said as I scratched my head. Even for an Australian who has lived in liberal Shanghai for 10 years and knowing the Dutch are equally liberal in some of their approaches, this still required some explanation. He quickly qualified his comment to say use stocking as gaiters. Simply put them over your shoes, and when they wear a hole in them (a ladder I thought it was called) tie a knot and keep walking. "Brilliant" I thought (though remember my defenses are low) and after exchanging a few more pleasantries we all went merrily on our way. Now secretly, I do have respect for Willehards and Jane’s approach to their Gobi preparation and later that day after looking at the recommended gaiters in detail, I started to think more seriously about the stockings idea. And as I tossed and turned in bed that night (tonight is the first night on the floor with the blow up MATTRESS unlike Declan who was doing this a week ago) I woke this morning thinking, 'Yep - I think it's worth trying.' Lightweight, practical and if it doesn’t work, I will be inspired by my own thoughts of revenge which will provide additional inspiration to complete the event.
 
So, this morning, without too much consideration, I scouted the local neighborhood for a store which might sell the aforementioned item. Now some of you are aware that I have moved into a very Chinese local way of living these days and whilst I consider myself reasonably culturally aware, open minded, and sensitive to the local population, to many in my compound, I am still something to be suspicious of. Especially my inconsistency. One moment I can be wearing a suit and looking a million dollars the next ( and more often than not) an unshaven, strange behaving foreigner, who wears red ( not pink I'm told!!!) shoes, bandanas and is often seen going out dressed like this late in the evening when most are retiring for the evening. And it was whilst I was dressed in this manner ( rather than the clean shaven, million dollar looking type person who could be doing the considerate thing for his wife or daughters) that walked into a very local supermarket where I'm sure no foreigner has ever stepped before, and headed to the women’s section in search for stockings. Now call me naive, or 'you've never lived' but I tell you, I am not that confident in the world of what’s available in the 'women’s' section of any store, let alone in a women's section of a Chinese store where everything is in Chinese and there is no one who can help you (or is willing to help you) It was again at this same precise psychological moment that I started to get a sense of de ja vu - the Watsons experience, and the episode in the men’s changing room was coming back to me. I had done this thing all before. I could feel the eyes of the people on me from every corner of the store, the whirring of the security cameras as they centered on me was deafening and I could see those guys in blue who I never knew what they did before, start to look more alert and start to stare at me through the convex mirrors that are at the top of each aisle to show what’s going on in those not easy to be seen areas of the store. Too late to turn back at this stage. I could hear the advice from my father ringing in my ears. "Be confident son, if you can't be a cricketer, look like one" What would he say here? "Be confident son, if you don't know how to wear stockings, look like you do?"
In any case, I have to declare openly to you all here and my therapist will be proud of me for coming out (is that the right phrase) and sharing it. I admit, I was beaten. My confidence soon waned as I was presented with a mixed array of 12G's and 10D's (sounds like I was in the wrong section) anklets and full length things, and French maid looking apparel and my favourites, something which I think I could use to go fishing when I'm next in Australia.
It was terrible, I felt hopeless. Like a nothing sort of a person. I walked out of the store like the dog with the proverbial tail between his legs - a defeated man. How I wished the other half resided a little closer.
On a philosophical note, my respect for women has grown. My own sexuality is safely male and even more homophobic. No stockings for this red blooded Australian male. I even started to feel whimsical about the Australian football team.
 
So, to you all. Good luck. I have done my penance and after the experience of training and preparation in all its forms, I feel the hardest tests have passed (yeh right) Paranoia has passed to a feeling of intrepidation, and nervousness which is probably about right. This is no stroll in the park and the press release today puts this firmly in perspective.
 
See you in Urumuqi. Or maybe at the Irishman on Friday or at the NZ trade office for dinner on Tuesday. I'll be the guy sitting there trying to look smug. You see, Willehard offered Jane to buy the stockings for me and now I know why. My only concern now, is that on Friday night, she turns up at the Irishman and calls across a packed bar room, 'Oh Todd, I've brought you your stockings!'

Comments: Total (5) comments

Posted On: 10 Jul 2010 09:22 am

this is great stuff. can't wait to hear the full trip report. (there will be one, right...?)

Posted On: 04 Jul 2010 04:32 am

Hope all is well with your run in the gobi. Bet you have seen a few mirages by now, but I am sure you will finish strong!

Posted On: 02 Jul 2010 05:50 am

Hello across the miles Todd. It's a long way from Jerdy to the Gobi - well done! Loving and prayerful thoughts. Shirley and David.

Posted On: 28 Jun 2010 11:47 am

Jia You!!! My thoughts will be with you!

Posted On: 28 Jun 2010 04:51 am

Hi Toodles' just read you blog and I never cease to be impressed therefore surprisedby your going ons. Well done and our best wishes for a successful completion. Obviously no one has told you that you need some lippy to protect the lips. If they had I am sure there would of been a Story 3. We were down on your dad's farm a fortnight ago to attend Barry King's wife's funeral. Barry farms over at Cascades. While I was down there I saw a photograph of you with Mother Theresa and it brought some memories of you earlier exploits or rather encounters being a better word. Being a past sailor I followed Jessica Watson each day of her world circumnavigation. So now I will follow your latest adventure. Good luck, fair weather and tireless hiking. Regards Michael & Marian.