I woke to rustling of sleeping bags and roll mats at 4am under a deep dark blue hue with white hundreds and thousands, this was a well cherished 5 hours, until we were told from an RTP volunteer, through no formal announcement which was the norm now, that we would be starting at 8am today. This was not good enough to be told at 5.10am 50 minutes before the start. Everyone was in there silent mental and physical preparations the same routine which had been honed for the last 5 mornings was now becoming second nature and finely tuned, eat as much as the disgusting dry mix porridge as we could, drink as much water as we could, carefully pack your crusty belongings into a weight distribution that suited and don't pack anything that you will need in the last 5 minutes - tennis balls for melting the IT band, sun cream and energy powders. We were there. Oh no we weren't it's back to sleep for the whole rigmarole to happen again at 7am, shocking organisation. We started running as the sun rose onto the ex buddhist temple where we were staying, this meant that we would have had 2 more hours of exposure to the sun at a weaker and lower point in the following 24 hours. The first two stages were a dream, down hill through bamboo, river beds and finally through a Wigga village with many running kids and supporting families, clearly thinking what the hell are these mad mad westerners doing. Rumour has it that one of the course designers were quizzing the local elders to receive a concerned and unaproving response of 'what were you fools doing in the flaming mountains yesterday' ....and probably backed up in with some strong Wigga untranslatables. The March continued across plains for further 30km to the second lowest place on earth, the heat was bearable with a lethal breeze that dried your sweat instantaneously. This meant you had no conscious idea of how hard your body was working to cool itself and in danger of serious dehydration. We had learnt through our rookie ways as the week went on, most people had techi watches with guages and alarms telling when they should systematically take the next batch of electrolytes, at the very least they had a well rehearsed system and strategy of how to play this game. Our amateur approach was evident and became quite humorous throughout the week, but we were never to not heed the great advice given. Actual Hell on Earth. Everyone could paint a picture of what hell would look like from their school days, this was it. Grey, crusty mounds 15 foot high, no regularity to them with sulphorous puddles at the bottom of each. It was as though Hades had ploughed the surface and left it to bake for centuries. The air was heavy, salty and hot, there was no escape from the minds eye as for as you could make out apart from two lone workers foreseeable trying to mine what salt there was left in the ground at a pace slower than Mike Oliver's walk. I was by myself at this stage as the pain throughout my whole lower half became unbearable with the constant pounding meant i could not keep up with Sam and Jo. This almost was the end of me and for hours and hours i vowed to myself over and over again that i would never ever do this again, and then vowed again that i would never ever forget that i vowed to myself that i would never do this again. The pain is already distant in my memory! The landscape did not help and the enormity of the mental battle became apparent as we were only half way through the day at the second lowest point on earth and the lowest point on the trip. Check point 5 resembled a death ward, many competitors were caked out with IV drips in them. Many deliriously resting before the next slog. I made this a quick and focused 20 minute stop. At this stage the sections became dangerously longer as RTP had 'apparently' measured them to be no more than 12km. Some where 16km and we ran out of water. The only focus was to reach check point 7 as soon as possible so i could have my favourite chicken tikka dry mix, this was the source of much amusement in Tent Mongol throughout the week as my appetite grew and others waned, dustbin and gannet were words put to good affect. 5 of us set off into the night to our next orienteering challenge through villages as the Wigga children had been told they would collect $50 dollars for every course marker they could find. Most locals sat their expressionless and helpless at our misery until one of them would suddenly realise and understand that we were part of the race and wanted directions, what the hell else we were all doing there unwashed, unkempt with alien like water bottles stuck to our chests. This was not a time for games. I could not have done the last stages without Simon, Debs, Jo and Li. We entered the sand dunes on lowering reserves, a complete 'fuck off factor' after already completing 100km (the course was meant to be 99km). They were just as you imagine the perfect sand dunes to be, soft and effortless to look at, deep and sinking to walk through. Ridge after ridge, in the dark with fading tent head torches to navigate. We ascended the last dune to camp as the sky lit up with the morning sun as though to say 'ha ha here's the light switch you needed along the whole way', still we were there and the emotions being held out for so long were finally allowed to release, the tales begin and the long recovery process to start. There were still people out all day in the heat and sun for their second day, no one envied them. Poor Jimbo could not go further on his knees, bloody great effort to get that far mate. Hugh came in with Dave O'Brien around 10am, the two of them supporting each other across an emotional finish line. Charlie ran a substantial amount of the first half and came in in the early hours apparently there is some good footage half way round delirious with rage, i look forward to seeing that. Sam Gash ran the first 70km straight, extraordinary. Sam Wilson trooped through in a spectacular time with very little stopping and Mountain Goat was... Mountain Goat. A Huge Thank You for all your support and well wishes over the last 6 months and the last week. I would like to thank every single one of you for your kind donations to the Army Benevolent Fund and British Heart Foundation, I hope that we can get to 25k. Until next time.

The last competitor has just arrived back in camp from the Long March which turned out to be 110km. I arrived over the last of 10km sand dunes at 5.55am this morning bang on sunrise, emotions were certainly running high after 21 hours on the move. It has been very difficult to sleep today in the sweltering heat of the Oven, our bodeis are still working overtime to recover and therefore it is time for bed under the stars! (we have had only 8 hours sleep in the last 72 hours). Details of the pain and elation to follow.
 
Extraordinary effort by all competitors today, well done and all safely back.

Thor's Orchestra, Power lines and Sunsets and Welcome to Hell and Life after Death.

 

I would not have wished today on anyone, the trouble is we have 3 time the distance to cover tomorrow in potentially 5-10 degrees more heat.This is absolutely extraordinary people are still coming in now 10 hours after the start, it is 4pm and 45 degrees (this actually is 2pm in the position of where the sun is because the Chinese rule insists on having the same time zone across 3500 miles....), there are people still on the course, those who got the bulk of the 11-2pm sun on the course are all passed out on their mats drinking enough. I have drunk my 5 litre allowance of water already, there is a fresh glacial river which we are not allowed to swim in.... there is a feeling of mutiny in camp. No one cares about there times now, it is survival and the finish line.

 

We rose early doors after little sleep, due to mountain goats and crying baby Wigga's, in order to bus to today's start line. A question that has come up many times already this week is  ' what the hell are we doing here on our holidays?' - stood on the side of a small stream in a desert Oasis in the middle of nowhere in the dark, exhausted both physically and mentally this came up, and of course was one of many moments today that this came up. The pace was ferocious again for the first 24 kilometers of flat, deserted desert (funny that!) bar only a track with power lines running as far as the eye could see. The sun rose at about 7am so we had cool conditions until about 11am. And then we turned a sharp left up a 2 mile sand dune.

 

The afternoon progressed after check point 2 in the same ascent incline, soft sand, crud, baking hot gullies more, more and more... the gullies were 10 metres deep, vertical walls, in an interlocking spur format so you could see only the third spur in front on the horizon. When you start thinking 'this must be the last' you have attempted fate. I don't know how many there were, there are many numbers being thrown around camp which are growing exponentially. The trouble with these were that they were claustrophobic, narrow, you couldn't swing your legs without bowing them let alone poles, the heat radiated from the walls and they were lonely.

 

I let my company carry on at check point 2 were you might see my video on the website. My IT Band on my left knee had flared up again with much more regular intervals of lightening through my knee, it felt like Thor was conducting an orchestra. Fortunately I got in at midday and had only an hour of intense sun, this was enough. My sense of humour had completely gone in the last 5km and considerable unsavory words were coming out of my mouth, as well as reverberating through the whole valley from other agonised competitors. I didn't want to be there. I have never seen myself capable of such a mood, so much so that I felt compelled to punch one of the volunteers when I came in (fortunately I didn't for the record) - I worry for tomorrow and the mammoth 100km where it will be hotter with no wind, and we will be out from dawn until dusk at least.

 

We did manage to sneak into the river (shhh don't tell RTP otherwise I will get a time penalty) this was life after death and my mood quickly bounced back.

 

Team - Charlie dominated again today and got in before the heat, good for you. Hugh has some serious blister action and quote when he came through the finish line today 'Fxckin Hell, what the hell are we doing here'. Jimbo's knees are still very sore and he put in a gargantuan effort today, just making it to the finish line after taking a wrong turning with 20 yards to go (Hugh was behind him as well so don't know what happened there...), not being able to get into the village and passing out. Luckily he was fine. Mountain Goat put in a goat worthy effort, Sam Wilson had a tough time out there today and Sam Gash again put in a stunning performance with a potential torn meniscus. Gasher (aka Sam G) is doing the Four Deserts this year, and when she is successful will become the youngest and first female to complete the challenge in one year. There are many film crews around following their relevant sponsors - Red Bull, Chinese media, UK media, and RTP paparazzi - or if we're lucky a snippit of us as Sam G is being filmed as part of a documentary for completing the Four Deserts.

 

Camp - we are in an old Buddhist temple in the upper section of the Turpan. It is barren yet stunningly beautiful all around, the most bizarre thing is that the Chinese government have turned it into a tourist attraction and museum (where we are staying tonight), again extraordinary considering we are more remote that Norfolk here.

 

Camp Chat - apart from the anxiety and mutiny one particular reoccurring conversation amuses me. It starts something along the lines of; is

the Gobi March harder than the Marathon de Sables, or is this the hardest Four Deserts Race? The answer is always tailored if necessary through asking other people until the right answer is given! There are many forms of this conversation and the consensus from the pro's table is that tomorrow's will be hottest race on earth.

 

Good Luck to all.

 

 

3 days in and the magnitude of this job is taking its toll, as well as the sudden changes to the plan from racing the planet which we all have to get on with.
 
We were told this afternoon that the 'flaming mountains' pathway had collapsed in the inclement weather we are having and that tomorrow's route had been re-drawn. This means a 2.45am wakeup, a bus for two hours and a 6am race start. Perhaps the name flaming mountains is a virtue we are not racing there.... but to deal with that early start when our bodies are really starting to flag has put a downer on a good spirit in camp - we have
 
Today's stage was unbelievably fast paced, we started along an 8 mile dried up river bed which was particularly challenging considering the rocks were like babies heads. We then ascended to a flat lunar landscape for 7 miles before another spout of unnecessary course routing across the steepest flint dunes in the area, up and down for an hour. The conditions were superb - a cool light wind, clouds and a light rain. As well as the general easy ground this meant that this was a 'pure runners' dream and set a very strong pace against the flat footed oaths that we are in comparison.
 
It is amazing the different aspects of this race, diarrhea is raging through camp and this is a serious concern for us all, food rationing and nutrition are also key to a successful campaign. Fortunately Tent Mongol has not picked the bug up and are following an obsessive alcohol gel process before touching anything, and then doing it again. Hydration and the sun are also issues which everyone is fearing as we descend to the Turpan Basin - Charlie and I both had mild sunstroke yesterday.
 
So we are in Peach village,  a beautiful oasis of Peach Trees in the upper reaches of the 'oven', it is about 30 degrees and 7pm here and we are all fearing what difference this will make during tomorrow's midday sun. We are staying with the locals tonight - a romantics delight. In reality the cloud of flies inhabiting our outdoor platform under the veranda is putting the fear into our hygiene regime, and I have welled up in allergy from the fine cat hair woven into the mat we are all sleeping on.
 
I am particularly pleased that I managed to run 80% of today, this has filled me with confidence about tomorrow and the race. It is an extraordinary paradox to be weighed out which constantly plays with your mind, that is; getting to the finish line and survival which is an achievement I would be extremely proud of at this stage versus your race position, there is a lot of personal mind games involved in all of this. For motivation I find talking to myself works embarrassingly well, this along with the 'cast and reel in' tactic I find works. I might share what I say in time but in resembles something like what a rugby coach may be shouting from the touch line - very sad!
 
My IT Band took 3 lightening strikes today, these are aptly named due to the short sharp, pain that brings you straight to the ground and of course with various expletives chucked in for dramatic measure as you are rolling down the back of flint dune. I was running with Lisa Tamati today a world renowned NZ ultra marathon runner (i'm sure you've all heard of her!!) this gave me considerable confidence.
 
Please keep your messages coming in they are so important to us all.
 
Up in 6 hours will try and bed down on my cat rug.

We are now sat in an open tent on a grassy plateau surrounded by some pretty serious snow capped mountains. Stage 1 over. 5 more stages to go and 140 miles - this fills me with dread after a very tough first stage.

However there is time to be upbeat and reflect as we have all evening in the sun before another round of hell! Our moods are collectively picking up so i will fill you in on the last few days. 

Highlights have included considerable waves in energy peaking when you meet the different, interesting and inspiring people in the race, as well as considerable amounts of banter. This has included Dreamboat (aka Charlie) coyly walking through the hotel foyer with nothing but a dressing gown....  competing with each other as to who has the lightest bag, needless to say my appetite resulted in me having the heaviest by a mile and then endless jutification as to why this is better... no idicrocy! We settled on our bag weights only to hear some pro- advice from Sam Gash an hour before we set off to Turpan,  this resulted in repacking our freeze dried powder foods into lighter plastic bags only resembling a Chinese drugs operation ... 1kg off my total weight and down to 11.5kg - bonus. The lightest bag on the course is 5.7kg - still a fool!

Troughs have included considerable amounts of nervous energy and sleepless nights, all justified on today's stage... ITB issues during the viscious mountainous second half today, and visits to the medical tent already. There was also an angry outbreak directed at Jimbo this morning when my bag straps broke 10 minutes before the race - while Charlie was frantically trying to do a mendy job Jimbo was frantically trying to organise the group photo - an amusing episode now, sorry Jimbo! Oh and the news that stage 5 will be 100 clicks from the previous 89, with a 20 click sand dune stage probably in the dark early on Friday morning all in 50 degree heat. 

So far the overall experience can only be described as polarised. Half 1 today was flat along a basin, half 2 was a killer hill

Apparently stamina increases with age, I certainly agree with this in desert running! The level of fitness and focus that some of the competitors have is incredible, us being the youngest tent of 8 people are using this phrase to our advantage, all to dubious ears however.
 
'Stage Two' carried on in the same vain as the end of stage one, only this time we were 'relatively' fresh. Extreme hills up and down for 2 hours was what we were faced with, for me this was a potential disaster after my Arches, IT Band and Popletia issues yesterday, however after firing the engines and some decent limbering up beforehand they seemed to be ok. Steph and Gemma you would be proud of my religious exercises - thanks to all at Six Physio for all their help in the last three weeks.
 
Second half was a stunning section down through the valley villages, river beds and river crossings before a very sharp ascent onto the plateau above the river where are in camp 2.
 
Camp - extraordinary vibe in our tent today as we all came in under 5 hours, and the first (bar the pro tent) to finish as a group. Camp lounging is the highlight of the day which involves languid chit chat, stretching and considerable refueling. Last night 'Mountain Goat' (aka Fintan) was busted having a leak outside the tent (there is the most revolting 'shitter' setup - sorry no better words for them) and was fined an hour in time. He is coming in 17th position and is a serious contender, this would put him back to 40th... you can imagine the rage this morning when we all heard.
 
Charlie is putting in an extraordinary effort at 15th and some huge times - we are all supporting him to get a top ten finish. Hugh is holding up very well considering some pretty serious blister action. Jimbo unfortunately suffered with IT issues on both legs today, which the first hill stage did not suit - I hope they recover tonight mate. I managed to define the 'kangaroo skip' using poles while going down hill, this took the weight of my left knee considerably and was used throughout the day. Charlie calls this cheating, I will let him off this one given his current race position.
 
There is a considerable feeling of anxiety in camp about the long day on Thursday. I will pose this brief question which may sum it up - 'Can a man stand up in 50 degree plus heat for 24 hours?' what then happens if you start trying to cover 100k in this time, and we are fully preparing ourselves for a full 24 hour session.
 
Spirits are high, confidence is up, I ran 6 miles for the first time in four weeks.
 
It all starts again tomorrow.

We are now sat in an open tent on a grassy plateau surrounded by some pretty serious snow capped mountains. Stage 1 over. 5 more stages to go and 140 miles - this fills me with dread after a very tough first stage.

 

However there is time to be upbeat and reflect as we have all evening in the sun before another round of hell! Our moods are collectively picking up so i will fill you in on the last few days.

 

Highlights have included considerable waves in energy peaking when you meet the different, interesting and inspiring people in the race, as well as considerable amounts of banter. This has included Dreamboat (aka Charlie) coyly walking through the hotel foyer with nothing but a dressing gown....  competing with each other as to who has the lightest bag, needless to say my appetite resulted in me having the heaviest by a mile and then endless jutification as to why this is better... no idicrocy! We settled on our bag weights only to hear some pro- advice from Sam Gash an hour before we set off to Turpan,  this resulted in repacking our freeze dried powder foods into lighter plastic bags only resembling a Chinese drugs operation ... 1kg off my total weight and down to 11.5kg - bonus. The lightest bag on the course is 5.7kg - still a fool!

 

Troughs have included considerable amounts of nervous energy and sleepless nights, all justified on today's stage... ITB issues during the viscious mountainous second half today, and visits to the medical tent already. There was also an angry outbreak directed at Jimbo this morning when my bag straps broke 10 minutes before the race - while Charlie was frantically trying to do a mendy job Jimbo was frantically trying to organise the group photo - an amusing episode now, sorry Jimbo! Oh and the news that stage 5 will be 100 clicks from the previous 89, with a 20 click sand dune stage probably in the dark early on Friday morning all in 50 degree heat. 

 

So far the overall experience can only be described as polarised. Half 1 today was flat along a basin, half 2 was a killer hill stage. Stunning landscapes yet head down in pain and focus so you cannot appreciate it. Amazing people fuelled with great banter but with frought moods to enjoy it. A takeaway pizza supper last night in camp 1, fried chicken korma tonight... yum!

 

It has only just started. Bring it all on!

 

 

 

Jimbo and Nick completed this yesterday and are absolutely knackered today! - just setting this up and is a test.