Atacama Crossing Blogs 2013

Bryan Murphy

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Atacama Crossing (2013) blog posts from Bryan Murphy

08 March 2013 03:56 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

Hey Everyone

Got through the long march yesterday!

Woke up yesterday and could hardly move my knee or my calves. Foot was ok and did a spot of last minute nail draining.The stage was 75kmish and they gave us 24 hours to get through it. The first stage was horrible.The terrain underfoot across the crusty saltflats was almost impossible to navigate but I managed to get through it by which time myt knee had loosened off a bit.

By the start of stage 2 I was beginning to fly - but then about half way through I started to get really sharp pains in my left calf. I slowed pace down to a point where the pain was manageable and got through to the 3rd checkpoint. The key with pain in race like this is to distinguish between pain that is short-term and won't cause any damage and pain that could lead to long term damage.

So the doc at CP3 said my calf pain was most likely a combination of tendonitis and shin splints and wouldn't cause any long-term damage - so game on!

Because I wasn't running I finished at CP1 in 81st place but I walk pretty fast and picked up a load of places over the runners who'd run out of gas (all that marching around the office paying dividends!).

I felt full of energy through CP4 and CP5 and didn't bother to stop at all - other than to get filled up with water - I've been going through about 8l of water a day!

I pushed through CP5 and CP6 as it got dark and pulled in a few more runners - with the end in sight - the last 18kms or so I didn'.t want to slow down and probably accelerated through until the end.

Walked the last two stages in complete darkness - with only the starlight and headtorch to light the way - although I often walked only by starlight as they were so bright.

I eventually crossed the line at some point after 10pm so 14 hours something in total. I made up almost 30 places from CP1 and got through the finishing line. I've done very long day marches before, but what made this different was the fact that it came on top of another 4 very hard days.

I still felt full of energy at the end of the race - so even though I'm delighted to have made it to almost the end of the race, it's frustrating that my body wasn't able to keep up with my general fitness. But that's also probably true of everyone - looking around the camp today looks like a scene from The Walking Dead!

Sitting here on day 6 my knee's shot, my feet are a mess and I've got cankles! If I'd been able to run without pain I feel I could have been much more competitive but it is what it is. Lack of proper prep really showed during the race but that couldn't be helped.

Anyway - not sure I'll get a chance to blog again before leaving.

Last 10kms tomorrow and then the party in San Pedro - speak soon!

Bryan

Comments: Total (8) comments

Catherine Lee

Posted On: 21 Mar 2013 02:36 am

congratulations Bryan. Well done. Enjoy the party and rest more. Speak soon in HK.

Lucy Ng

Posted On: 11 Mar 2013 09:52 pm

YAY. Way to go Bryan !! Congrats to you & your fellow racers on extremely incredible performances !! Absolutely amazing how you all managed to race under such harsh conditions & still kept very detailed blogs. You should be really proud of yourself & what you have achieved for others :) Enjoy the parties & the rest of your trip. Let's celebrate your victory with more drinks, food & dancing etc when you return. Lucy xo

Lucy Ng

Posted On: 11 Mar 2013 09:41 pm

YAY. Way to go Bryan !! Congrats to you

Sara Dias Murphy

Posted On: 10 Mar 2013 01:55 pm

Congratulations!!!! Well done!!! Have a very big rest!! :)

Brian McCann

Posted On: 09 Mar 2013 03:46 pm

Congratulations Bryan - what an wonderful achievement. Hearts were in our mouths at times, but our faith in you never faltered. Stuff the Bookies! Enjoy a very well earned rest. Uncle Brian & Aunt Janette.

Jim Murphy

Posted On: 09 Mar 2013 01:01 pm

Bryan - We are so proud of you for what you have personally achieved, and the money raised for your sponsored charities. We have walked in your footsteps every day. Enjoy your party and well earned holiday God Bless - Love Mum/Dad

Kieran Murphy

Posted On: 09 Mar 2013 11:46 am

Excellent work Bryan, you're in the home straight now. So I take it you got Michele Ferrari on the support staff to pay you a wee visit in the night with his portable fridge for some good 'ol blood flushing and an EPO boost?

Peter Williams

Posted On: 09 Mar 2013 08:50 am

Awesome work Bryan, congratulations! Enjoy the party..

06 March 2013 03:16 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

Ok - this might be in bullet point form as I'm absolutely knackered.

1. Stage 4 was brutal - it's almost impossible to describe how hot it is here. Stage 4 was basically a straight 44km trail through the salt flats. The salt-flats sit across this enormous plateau with the mountains on one side and nothing as far as you can see on the other. The horizon seems to stretch for hundreds of miles and it's a pretty painful thing to have to walk through. Eis very step on the flats ends up collapsing into the sand. There's nowehere to properly plant your feet and even if you wanted to run you'd find it very tough.

2 Feet holding upish. The drilling seems to have worked although I did think I'd struck oil at one point - we've got a gusher! I've got blisters on almost every part of both feet but they're manageable as long as they're not infected.

3. Knee screwed - the lesson that everyone should take from this is this - you can't really enter a multi-day endurance event off the back of an injury and zero event-specific training. Well you can - but it'll just hurt a lot. I've taken some anti-nflammatories and hopefully the swelling comes down overnight. If it comes down ok then I should be ok to suck it up for the rest of the race, otherwise who knows.

4. Tomorrow's stage is called the "long march" and it's 75kmish. If I can start tomorrow hopefully I can finish it. We've got a rest day after the long march so if I finish tomorrow that should be it. Just hope all the swelling comes down. My best guess for tomorrow is that'll take at least 15 hours.

I'm off now to get some kip and get my legs back into the air - see if I can get my feet back into my shoes tomorrow!

Thanks for all the great messages and support and speak to everyone soon.

Adios

Bryan

Comments: Total (6) comments

Jim Murphy

Posted On: 07 Mar 2013 07:32 pm

Hi Bryan - Faith and belief in your abilities, will be the key to your success - nearly there - God Bless Love Mum/Dad

Ariel N

Posted On: 07 Mar 2013 05:58 pm

Almost there man. You\'ll do it!

Toad t

Posted On: 07 Mar 2013 04:19 pm

YOU CAN DO ITTT!! Good luck & take care, Bryan!

Brian McCann

Posted On: 07 Mar 2013 10:26 am

Great blogs, Bryan, especially considering how you must be feeling. Your grit is going to get you over that finish line, although the Bookies have now stretched the odds to 30-1 for a first 20 finish. I've put another 20 quid on you!

jessie huang

Posted On: 07 Mar 2013 09:59 am

Keep it going Bryan. You are almost there! "When your legs get tired, run with your heart."

Peter Williams

Posted On: 07 Mar 2013 06:16 am

Keep it up Bryan. You\'re going to make it!

05 March 2013 03:47 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

OK Guys…


Not getting any easier – got up to 46C on th3e course today. I’m feeling pretty fresh all things considered. Not tired or fatigued but my feet are a bit of a mess.


Top Tip No.1 – If you’ve got a black nail don’t kick every rock and stone in the bloody desert. I must be one of the few people in the race praying for uphills – because my toes won’t bang against the front of my shoes. They say you should get shoes 1.5-2 stages bigger than your normal size to account for the swelling, but at this rate I’ll need to cut the toes off the front of the shoe!


My IT band is still stupidly tight so I’k downave pretty much resigned myself to not running much for the rest of the race. Doesn’t actually make it easier – just means you end up spending a couple of hours extra in the sun. No other major issues. Feeling pretty good all things considered. Going to head back to the tent shortly, pop a few anti-inflammatories and hope I can squeeze them into my shoes for tomorrow am.


Tomorrow’s not going to be any easier apparently – hours and hours on the baking salt-flats.


Just to give you some numbers to play with – I’m popping about 6 electrolyte tablets a day, about 6 salt tablets, at least one energy powder a day and a load of nuts, raisins and other little snacks.


We’ve got another 40kmish stage tomorrow and then it’s the long stage the day after (75kms). There’s a rest day the day after the long stage so if I can get through tomorrow with no other major issues I’ve got a good shot at taking the long stage.


This whole thing is basically about managed decline. From the moment we started on Sunday our bodies were beginning to break down. The trick is basically to keep your body going as long and as well as possible before the end of the race on Saturday.


As I said earlier – I’m feeling fresh – just hope my feet hold up through tomorrow and the long stage, then I’ve got a day to rest before the short final stage.


Just one thing about the Atacama – it’s unbelievable how many stars you can see in the sky. If you ever get the chance I’d highly recommend it.


Keep the emails and blogs replies coming guys.


Cheers


Bryan

Comments: Total (8) comments

Lucy Ng

Posted On: 06 Mar 2013 06:35 pm

Hey Bryan, We're all proud of you & rooting for you !!! Your feet hurt cause you're kicking so much **** ;) Pain now, beer & vodka later :) There is no app for this, so you have to keep on running !!! Take care, Lucy xo

Jim Murphy

Posted On: 06 Mar 2013 04:26 pm

Hi Bryan - As suggested, try to elevate your feet when resting and lying down. This will rest your legs, and hopefully reduce the swelling. May the spirit, and strength of "Barrs Irn Bru" be with you. Take care - love Mum/Dad

Brent Reuter

Posted On: 06 Mar 2013 11:51 am

Way to go Bryan. Sounds like you are managing as well as you could have expected. Can't wait for the live debrief and stories. Well done so far and keep grinding away. You're going to do it!

Jac Tse

Posted On: 06 Mar 2013 10:54 am

Oh my that sounds terribly painful! Amazing to see you're still in good spirits!! keep it up - ALMOST halfway!! Try to elevate your feet as much as you can, even during sleep, it'll help the swelling a lot.

LRHG -

Posted On: 06 Mar 2013 10:50 am

does going uphill not lead to the inevitable downhill (which I find more of a bashing for the toes as they dig into your shoes more than going on the flat)? mind you I'm only an amateur hiker so what do I know... anyhoo - rots of courage for the last hundred or so kms (is that all?!) - the charlie b type. hope the tootsies hold up and not let you down.

Gyneth Tan

Posted On: 06 Mar 2013 07:04 am

Hola Guapo! They say having mantra will help, something like "never give up, never surrender" or "I'm a machine!!!" haha... anyways this is your first desert run, I'm reading btwn d lines u r enjoying the race... saw some videos and pix, the views of the stars and galaxies are awesome! Your family and friends r so proud of you! Hugs, Gin x

Din C

Posted On: 06 Mar 2013 05:31 am

Hola! U still alive! Keep it up like keeping up with the Kardarshians ! Ciao Xoxo DD

fran murray

Posted On: 06 Mar 2013 04:12 am

Tremendous stuff! Fingers crossed the foot/blisters hold together tomorrow and for the remainder

04 March 2013 02:58 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

Ola Peeps


Just finished stage 2 – 46km. Had to walk rather than run as the IT band was too tight. Blisters seem to be holding up ok at this point although I did have the somewhat dubious pleasure of having one of the doctors drill a hole in my big toenail to release the pressure and hopefully stop me losing the nail before the end of the race. I’m not in expert in these things but I think losing your toenail in a race like this might be a wee bit ticklish…


One other thing – driest desert in the world my ass! We spent the first 5km walking through rivers up to our knees in the water that runs of the mountains from the glaciers on the Chilean Andes! This meant our feet were pretty wet for the first half of the race before drying a bit on the stage 2.


Stage 2 was physically the hardest – uphill all the way but that allowed me to claw back some time on the runners. Worst stage was the last –across these relentless salt flats. The temperature today was well north of 40C – and when it hits the sand it bakes and reflects straight back into your face.


Got back to camp a few hours ago and have spent the last few hours rehydrating and getting some food – it’ll be a really early night tonight. Tomorrow’s supposed to be harder than today and today was the toughest day I’ve ever spent in a race. Lots more salt flats tomorrow – very difficult to run on those. Every time you plant your feet they sink through the crust and you have to dig your feet out – very draining.


Other than feet and IT band I’m feeling pretty fresh. If the IT band doesn’t loosen up then I might need to focus on finishing. Got to hope the nail doesn’t cause any more problems as that could be a real deal-breaker.


Anyway – more fun tomorrow. Stay tuned for more adventures tomorrow!


Bryan

Comments: Total (6) comments

Jim Murphy

Posted On: 05 Mar 2013 08:01 pm

Bryan - Hoping the nail doesn't cause you any more problems, take care, be careful - (By the way you have won £25 on the premium bonds) - Lucky white heather! Love Mum/Dad

Ariel Navarro

Posted On: 05 Mar 2013 05:10 pm

You are finally going to get tanned!

S Namaste

Posted On: 05 Mar 2013 01:36 pm

Please try not to lose your toe nail Bryan...you won't be able to paint it black or red then! You are doing great! Take care and enjoy!

Brian McCann

Posted On: 05 Mar 2013 10:46 am

Hang in there, Bryan, and keep getting the feet checked as often as possible. The Bookies have offered me 20-1 that you'll finish in the first 20, so I've got twenty quid on you! I need the money!

jessie huang

Posted On: 05 Mar 2013 07:36 am

Good work Bryan! Wow you can still blog in such details, which means you have plenty in the pocket. Good luck and take care!

Kieran Murphy

Posted On: 05 Mar 2013 03:32 am

Keep up the good work. if you keep going at this pace you'll not have the time to finish that War and Peace audiobook...

03 March 2013 04:34 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

Hey Everyone!

Greetings from the end of Day 1. It was bloody freezing last night at the campsite - the wind really whipped through the campsite but they got a great campfire going towards the end of the night to warm us all up a bit. Got a reasonable night's sleep - a bivvy mat might have been a good idea but to be honest I suspect I'll be so knackered most nights that it'll be lights out before my head hits the 'pillow'.

Was up about 530am this morning to get ready - had an 800 calorie expedition food meal - Asian beef noodles apparently although I didn't detect much of anything that was Asian, beefy or noodley...

Anyway - today's first stage was 35kms. Starting at just over 3000m above sea level. It was a pretty cold start so most people seemed keen to make progress while it was colder (14c at starting time). It was a very difficult start - not so much because of the terrain - but more because of the altitude. At this altitude yur lungs need to work so much harder to do the same things. Even shuffling along at 8kmph was pretty draining. We dropped down a few hundred metres as we made our way to the first checkpoint. It began to warm up between the first and second checkpoint until it 36C between the second and third ch4eckpoint - the ground temperature was much hotter though. The sand reflects the heat directly into your face and it feels in excess of 40C. The second to third checkpoint was pretty tough - mostly uphill, but I kind of like the uphills as my old Mac team-mates know!

This was my first proper run since the 3rd of January and I wasn't sure quite what to expect. Normally if I haven't run fora while I get a really tight IT band and after the second checkpoint it really tightened up so I ended up half walking / half jogging until the third checkpoint. From the third checkpoint I was mostly walking all the way.

I got into the stage finish in 4:20ish and in 31st place which I was pretty pleased with. Have spent the last few hours rehydrating and getting some food into me - feeling pretty fresh all the things considered. I've got the beginnings of a blister on my right foot so will need to keep and eye on it.

Otherwise feeling good. Tomorrow will be the big test. Need to see how my legs hold up and hopefully the stretches loosen up my IT band.

Keep the messages and emails coming. I can receive the emails but can only post to the blog. So email or post on the blog and I'll respond on the blog.

Remember to sponsor me for Save The Children or the HKSPC on the justgiving page - thanks!

Hope everyone's well.

Speak soon!

Comments: Total (3) comments

Jim Murphy

Posted On: 04 Mar 2013 07:48 pm

Hi Bryan - You are doing great but take care. Donations :- total now £5,827.02p - everyone has been so generous - 91 donations - God Bless - Mum/Dad

Ariel Navarro

Posted On: 04 Mar 2013 02:13 pm

Happy to see that you dont forget our Mac days!! Keep going... We'll orgamize a oroper junk when you are back ;)

Brian McCann

Posted On: 04 Mar 2013 11:41 am

Look after those tootsies, Bryan. You're doing great!

02 March 2013 02:56 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

First blog from the campsite. We arrived a few hours ago after a 2 hour drive from San Pedro De Atacama. Had the full check-in this am. The briefing this am went over course details, all the rules and tips etc. Then we had the full check-in – equipment check, medical check from the doctors on our hydration plans and salt / electrolyte strategy. My bag weighed in at 11.5 kgs but doing my best to get rid of excess gear and food. So hopefully now I’m down to about 10kgs. We’re sharing in tents of ten. The ground is very rocky – not sure it was a great idea to skip on bringing a mat – but we’ll see.


The landscape here is incredible – everything has an orange, coppery colour – not surprising from the country with the largest copper deposits in the world. The landscape feels very other-worldly – Martian I guess – which is why NASA tests its rover vehicles here. Tonight’s the first night I’ll get a chance to see the stars. Atacama has the best viewing conditions for astronomy in the world. The air is so dry that the images produced by the telescopes are the best that can be captured on earth.


The race starts tomorrow at 8am. So try to get an early night tonight and prep for the race. Tomorrow’s first stage is 35kms and we’re starting at over 3000m above sea level. Looking forward to getting started now after what seems like a lot of waiting. The air is so dry it’s very easy to get dehydrated – so need to be constantly drinking water. I’ve hardly run at all in the last two months so I’m really hoping my feet and legs hold up!


Speak soon.


Bryan

Comments: Total (5) comments

Sara Dias-Murphy

Posted On: 04 Mar 2013 04:21 am

Hope all is going well and first day was not too painful!!

Jim Murphy

Posted On: 03 Mar 2013 08:13 pm

Hi Bryan - May the force be with you - God Bless - Mum/Dad

Gyneth Tan

Posted On: 03 Mar 2013 03:59 pm

Go go go!! Kieran

S Namaste

Posted On: 03 Mar 2013 03:29 pm

Hope you enjoy the first day! Good luck! P

Din C

Posted On: 03 Mar 2013 05:40 am

Good luck bushes!!!

25 February 2013 10:39 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

Testing, testing...

Hi everyone - this is a test blog.

Getting final preparations out of the way before I head off on Wednesday evening.

My journey to Chile is a bit of an odyssey - HK to NY, NY to Miami, Miami to Santiago, Santiago to Calama and then a two hour drive from Calama to San Pedro de Atacama. Close to two days in planes.

Will get plenty of time to rest my legs anyway...

Unlikely to have any other internet access so this is the best way to stay in contact. Feel free to drop me a note with updates from the rest of the world and strong words of encouragement!

More soon.

Cheers

Bryan

Comments: Total (8) comments

Brian & Janette McCann

Posted On: 01 Mar 2013 06:01 pm

Bryan - we can't applaud you enough for undertaking this mammoth task, however enjoyable it may be. We knew you were going to do something special for Lent! Our thoughts and prayers are with you, and Vaya con Dios. FREEDOM!!

K Murphy

Posted On: 01 Mar 2013 07:57 am

(with one f)

K Murphy

Posted On: 01 Mar 2013 07:55 am

So how do you feel after the Back Sac & Crack to prevent the chaffing? Smooth?

Sara Dias-Murphy

Posted On: 28 Feb 2013 05:57 pm

Good luck!!! Thinking of you!!!

Gin Tan

Posted On: 28 Feb 2013 02:53 am

Hola guapo! Look forward, think of the fiesta waiting for you at the finishing line ... yeeeepa! xoxo

Jose Luis Sanchez

Posted On: 28 Feb 2013 12:11 am

Vamos Bryan ! You should start the warm-up walk from Miami

Joanna Mak

Posted On: 27 Feb 2013 04:28 pm

Sunblock is your friend!

J Tse

Posted On: 27 Feb 2013 03:30 pm

Add oil!!!!!!