The Last Desert Blogs 2012

Jess Baker

6

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The Last Desert (2012) blog posts from Jess Baker

01 December 2012 04:29 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

We saw a HUUUMMMMPPBAAACCCKKK!!! About 100 metres out to sea we saw a spout hole...70m....50m...30m...20m....(s)he's curious, (s)he's coming towards us. WAHOO! It was absolutely awesome watching it surface and submerge again and again so close to the boat. It's white pectoral fins gave rise to a beautiful turquoise colour under the water and hinted in excitement where it was to surface next. Soo cool. That was the highlight of yesterday, between the extended napping (my gosh, I would hate to have chronic fatigue syndrome!) and (too much!) glorious food. Today we sail past Cape Horn, lots of interesting talks, and tonight the awards banquet. Then one day in Ushuaia before our return flight. Starting to think of returning home now; sooo excited to see Kitty. It has definitely been a great break, haven;t thought about work once...even if I have tried. Dec and Jan are designated catch-up with friends month! Mum are you free your Thurs morn for a chat? P we are inviting ourselves over for dinner!! And Di, you said it, you are now committed to an extensive slideshow! Bronwyn, exciting to hear that you are following. Love to you all. Jess X

Comments: Total (1) comments

Diane v

Posted On: 04 Dec 2012 08:34 am

Another sighting to check off the list!? Be awesome to see you (and Rog?) on Wed!!!!!!!! :))) x

30 November 2012 03:42 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

Stage 3: Hill reps in Antarctica. 1.2km loop; straight up, straight down for 2 hours with occasional "thunder" crashes as the nearby glacier dropped some of its snow into the water - ultra cool. The temperature was kind and it was a good afternoon, except for some loud F-bombs at the end. That night we returned to the mainland, made a small ditch and slept in bivvy bags next to the water as it softly snowed. HOW awesome? Not only do we get to see penguins, we get to sleep next to them, as they chortle us to sleep, and chorus us in the morning. Just as you might look out and see mynas in Australia, or sparrows in England, penguins porpoise through the water everywhere you look - the excitement of seeing them,does NOT get old (though, I do admit, I get a little bit hopeful that it might be a seal)! We are passing so close to the icebergs, and the water is just scattered with ice. I would defy anyone not to be moved by this truly magnificient place. It is soo wonderful to see Roger enjoying his new camera so much. This morning we were back on the boat early (5am), but the weather is poor and we are currently trying to sail away from the winds and 5-10m visibility. This is our final "running"day before a 3-day sail back. I am crossing my fingers, legs and toes for at least some kind of run, but I think that I am in the minority. The crew are keeping us entertained for interesting talks - one on Shackleton's adventure (omigosh, see previous blog about how inconceivable their expeditions are) and one about women in Antarctica - wahoo! Bless, our little gnome Ron is feeling a little under the weather. Greg always seems to be the focus of concern, that we can sometimes neglect the others - but he is tough little cookie, and I am sure with the antibiotics that he will pull through just fine. 

Hoorah to your win mum, and how could I forget to mention that they have lots of PICKLES on the boat!! :) My SIX top layers, FOUR bottom layers, 1 x liner and 2 x sleeping bags, and 2 xbottles of hot water, meant I was positively toasty camping. Who would believe that on Antarctica!!

Comments: Total (2) comments

Steve Young

Posted On: 02 Dec 2012 02:44 pm

so it's ppp penguins and porpoises, but not not ppp perishing!Can't believe that your final "running" day is coming up, so much stuff to have stored in your head though that it has to come to an end dunnit? Keep your eyes peeled for a seal while you can!Really enjoying your blogs, now...I was running along the street lit road with card flashing by...! That's mune!

Eleanor Crooks

Posted On: 01 Dec 2012 02:48 pm

Congrats Jess to you and all your team. What an amazing thing to have done. Camping with penguins sounds awesome!

28 November 2012 06:04 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

Omigosh, this is truely THE most BEAUTIFUL place in the world! All the rumours, all the cliches are true. The whitest white, the bluest blue, large and unique ice formations, as we cruise alongside the Antarctica mainland. I wish that all my family and friends may save enough to see it. It moves you deep in your heart, without feeling like a cheesy soptart!! :) This morning we were greeted by a pod of 12-15 type B orcas (the kind who hunt seals). It was amazingly spectacular, calming and exciting, all at the same time. The second day the run was cancelled, I did not care, it was replaced by exploring with colonies, and colonies of (Gentoo) penguins. It was soo much fun, I have a million photos of penguins. Roger and I just lay down in the snow kind of between a penguin walkway (you are not allowed to approach them closer than 5m) and just waited for them to come to us. There was lots of excited whispering of "incoming!!", as they waddled towards us. After yesterdays run however, in addition to their cuteness, I now have utmost respect for these tough, hardy creatures. We hiked around a 3.2km loop for 8.5 hours. A lashing wind, and a big, fat low-lying cloud ensured that temperatures were well below freezing. Now having experienced just a tiny amount of this coldness I am in awe of the King (or maybe Emperor?) male penguins who just sit there for 65 days peak-winter warming their eggs. It is almost incomprehensible too, how explorers manage to survive their crazy expeditions. Wow! Wow! Wow! 

Just when we thought the day,s adventures were over, as we rode back on the small Zodiac boats to the ships, a strong Russian accent yelled out "abort operation", "abort operation"! Our "driver" quickly switched route and joined another boat in "pushing" an iceberg away from out anchored boat. Then another boat joined us. It was sooo cool and something I had not thought of before. To add to the drama, the boat with the single man just suddenly rode up the iceberg and nearly tipped over. Whoa. That was close. Falling in this icy water could more than likely induce a heart attack. 

Because of the sighting of the orcas, our run this morning was cancelled, but we are due to run for a few hours (likely a 1-2km loop!!) this afternoon. People are getting on the ice this morning, but we have to stay on the ship to do filming. A bit disappointing, but ah well, this whole opportunity would not be possible if it not for the Born to Run team. 

Tonight we camp on the ice -wahoo!! I am planning to wear ALL my clothes, AND my fun American friend has a...drumroll...a hot water bottle to lend us - wahoo yeah! :) 

Internet, understandably, is a bit intermittent here, so don;t worry if you don.,t hear from us for a while. Thank you soo much for your emails and blogs, soo awesome to read. Tehe, ladders P!! Much love, Jess X

Comments: Total (4) comments

Pauline Rocket

Posted On: 30 Nov 2012 05:37 am

So pleased to hear all went well and you are back on the ship with all fingers and toes in tact. Enjoy that big party and hope it doesn't involve any 'rock and roll' on the crossing back. See you soon.. P xx

Bronwyn Evans

Posted On: 29 Nov 2012 11:51 pm

So lovely reading your blogs and sharing your excitement about Antarctica. I agree - no words can really describe how beautiful it is. Hope the ice camping went well. Following your adventures with great interest and admiration. Bronwyn x

Kristen Stokes

Posted On: 29 Nov 2012 12:58 pm

OMG! You guys are soo blessed! Can't believe the luck you are having with the weather ... a photographers dream to blitz it with the most franastic weather you could wish for. Have heard of peoiple playing with tiger cubs in Thailand but 'incoming' penguins and spotting orcasmust be like being in a David Attenbrough doco! Soo happy for all of you. Hope the rest is just as good if not better. Kristen

Diane v

Posted On: 29 Nov 2012 07:47 am

Hi Jess, How wonderful to read an update - it sounds like this trip has the right balance - 50/50 exploring/exercising, maybe?? I will happily look at lots of your/Roger's photos!!! I hope Roger's new cam is doing a good job for him too! Happy camping on the ice - WTF!? :p Diane. x

25 November 2012 01:59 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

Helllooo! Thank you all for emails and blogs. Love the vomit sayings Ms. Rocket (& I am sure that roger will appreciate when I share)! Can’t wait to see your new do! Kel, sooo excited that you’ve booked your flight – email, email me! Geeenius surname! J

Well, where to start? Awesome day. Just after I finished writing last time, we went up on deck and saw spout holes – from a distance, but still soo cool. Just listened to a talk about whaling, and hard to imagine, that 60 years ago this ocean was alive with spout holes. By 1931 humans had massacres 175, 000 whales, and 46,000 between the years of 1937-8. One theory for the rare sightings of blue whales is that they have a very good memory, and are still scared of boats. Humpbacks however, have a shorter lifespan and are on to the next generation. Anyhoo, enough of whales- the run!! 

Apparently King George;s island is one of the less attractive Antarctic islands, but I tell you I was impressed! The circuit was like a figure of 8,which we ran 5.5 times. The sunlight ensured that it never got boring though, casting a new scene on the beautiful white landscape as it moved.and the blue ocean contrasted beautifully with the pearly white. At one turnaround point there was a whale carcass – so fascinating. One of the vertebrae was as large as my diaphragm, the jawbone about 1.5 times my height. The other turnaround point involved going through what I would describe as a ceiling-less corridor. I would say snow running is a lot harder than sand running, mainly because of it’s unpredictability, every third, fourth, seventh, fifth step you would take a big drop up to your knee – making us look like drunkards stumbling across the ice. For the most part is was just entertaining, and Roger and I took a couple of stacks mucking around on the hills. 

We met some Uruguarian researchers, and it was fascinating chatting with them. They said that we were AMAZINGLY lucky with the weather, over the past 8 months, they had only had four days like our “mild” sunny day we had. Sorry P, no temperatures to report, but I tell you the wind makes a massive difference, and I am very grateful for my windproof gear. The researchers have internet, phone, but effectively live on tinned food, no fresh fruit and veg for one year – could you imagine?

The most exciting part of the day was at the end. Let’s hope I can explain it. Basically cut-off was 8.30pm, but if you get back before 8.15pm you have the option to go and do another loop. We got back at 8pm. People were retiring then, but we requested to go on for one more…it was great to see the look of disbelief on everyone’s faces as they agreed. We were the last people back finishing at 9.40pm. That last hour was such an adventure. I am sooo so pleased we made the decision to go on. The sun dropped, and the true nature of Antarctica was revealed. The temperature dropped, and it felt like we were in survival mode. The fingers went numb almost immediately, and it was like catch 22, to be able to fumble around to put more clothes on. It was really quite scary, and I did for an instance turn into girly mode, as I run up to Roger, asking him to “help me”! The team got on sooo well today, I am/was really happy, but I tell you, it took all we could to hang back with Greg, I just wanted to run and run to warm-up and get to my dropbag with another 3 layers of clothing waiting for me. I cannot imagine what frostbite must feel like. I bet any “local” would be guffawing at us, saying that it was “freezing”, but anyway it was just such an awesome experience, just to see just how scary and dangerous a climate it is, and how the unprepared would be shown no mercy.

We got back to ship about 10pm, and bless the staff has a hot buffet waiting for us; so kind.

Up early this morning, to see the views as we sailed into Deception island. Sooo beautiful, and pretty cool going through a thin layer of ice. Apparently in winter, Antarctica stretches for 5kms more in ice. Woo. Winds were 50 knots, so all activities are off. We are off to another destination now, maybe to run this afternoon, but I doubt it. Mixed reactions; some disappointed (me), some very relieved I think!

We saw penguins yesterday. They are so incredibly cute…and inquisitive, waddling up to us to have a look! There will be a talk soon learning all about them – I can’t wait! Their white bellies look almost pearl-like in the sunlight. 

Oh, one another thing that surprised me (sorry, no time to structure this), was just how bright it was. If you did try to take your sunglasses off, it was properly blinding – wow! I lathered and lathered sunblock on my face, and have still come out with some colour, though relative to the bright pink or red faces wandering around the ship, I have come off very lightly!

Right, best go. Willam, thanks for your message – get saving/fundraising, you would love it!

Getting on particularly well with an animated, enthusiastic American chick, unrelated to the race, and two lovely Australian/English couples. Roger was talking to the organizer today, and she mentioned, that if roger and I can get through just one of these deserts together, let alone 4, we are destine for each other….awww!

Comments: Total (2) comments

steve young

Posted On: 27 Nov 2012 06:26 pm

blimey Jess, dunno about a "blog" but that is something like a chapter! What with all the energy you're putting into the challenge you must be taking something special to keep up your muse!I like the natural history bits and the line about you looking like drunkards-yeah..just whre DO you hide the booze! Hope the team are finding it a bit easier now-said on the "Breaking News" that the terrain was making it tough to stick together. Haven't they checked you lot out?!!All for one and one for all right the way through this year!I doubt that'll change..!

Pauline Rocker

Posted On: 27 Nov 2012 09:58 am

Great to read your update. I always wanted to go to the antarctic but I am afraid I only made it to the Arctic Circle. I know how cold that was but still loved it.. you are so lucky!!! I know what you mean about running in snow. it is unpredictable. But the big plus is it seems to clean your running shoes better than any product I ever used. But I have no doubt you are running in NEW shoes..so no dirt to test :-) Good luck with the weather and I hope you get out running on the ice again. did James follow you during the day? If so how? Not many skiddos for hire down there I imagine :-)

24 November 2012 10:37 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

Hey guys,

Wow, thank you some of you for your emails already. Well we are well over halfway in your boat journey towards ANTARCTICA! The long journey (48 hours flying, 2.5days on the boat) adds to the authenticity of effectively going to the end of the world, and kind of makes it even more exciting. We just had to vaccuum all our gear to remove any bits of dirt, grass etc. that may contaminate the protected expanse, and we must disinfect our footwear before and after time we go to shore. This again, gets me even more excited about stepping afoot onto this pristine, relatively untouched white continent. I can' WAIT for it to come into view.
Binoculars, camera and wildlife book accompany me everywhere on the ship, just in case, but as yet, I have only had sightings of a sooty albatross, lots of cape petrels and Antarctic Terns. I missed the Wandering Albatross :( ... they have wingspans of about 1.5 metres)!!
I thought that I would go insane 2.5 days on the ship, but it is actually passing really quickly - mainly because I just keep sleeping, sleeping and sleeping a bit more - never slept this much in my life I reckon (a side effect of the seasick tabs apparently). I have no regrets about taking them though, my gosh! 45 knot winds (whatever that means?) has ensured that everyone walks around like a drunkard, food gets sent flying into people's laps at the dinner table, and rolling from left to right on the bed as you "sleep" - it does almost remind me of a fairgrouund ride...except it never ends....! Feeling a bit naseaus even with the meds!
I have never slept on board a ship before. Day journeys are the most I have experienced. It has completely EXCEEDED expectations. The tiny cubby bedroom I was expecting is a substantial double bed, with wardrobes, desk, kettle, and private shower; as nice, if not better than any hotel. I had an entertaining shower this morning - swinging around on a rail with one hand, whilst washing myself with the other. Large buffet breakfast, three course meal at lunch and three-course meal at dinner!! WOW! Meeeting some lovely people - new, and old friends from past deserts!
Roger tried to zen it out without seasick meds, but quickly succumbed! We entertained ourselves one evening (again in the comforting horizontal position), creating celebrity names with vomit-related phrases, e.g. Russell Throw, Wallace and Vomit, Spu Jackman....feel free to add more. Indeed, a few people mentioned that they did read my last blog,but made no comment - go on, say something if you wish!
So, this desert is different, it is all based on time, i.e. how far you can go within a set time. Tomorrow it will be 13.5 hours on King Georges Island. I cannot wait to get outside and MOVE!!
Love to you all.
X

Comments: Total (4) comments

Stuart McAvoy

Posted On: 26 Nov 2012 12:08 pm

Sounds amazing, although I have disturbing images of hundreds of runners ploughing through sheep dips of disinfectant... I'm sure it was far more civilised. Go Team Born to Run!

Kelly Hurl

Posted On: 25 Nov 2012 10:07 pm

Hey! Good to hear from you..I bet my now you are even more ready to get off the boat. You must be climbing the walls! Sea sickness is a horrible feeling, but not long now and you'll be on dry land...well, er, ice anyway! May as well keep on stocking up on food and sleep while you can. Some of the iceberg photos on the website look totally stunning, and i'm sure there's lots more to come. Anyway, enjoy the first day's racing...by the way, you're already second on the leaderboard before you've even started (very strong surname!!!!) Something to hopefully spur you on...I've booked my flights!!! Tell Roger to watch out, i'm coming to grill him...! Take care out there xxx

Alina B

Posted On: 25 Nov 2012 12:32 pm

Hi Jess - It already sounds like you guys are on a grand adventure. I loved all the photos posted onto the JDRF Facebook page from Ushuaia! And the ship sounds absolutely phenomenal. Make sure to keep Roger in line (as well as Sam and Riitta!) and enjoy the penguins! xo Alina

Pauline Rocket

Posted On: 25 Nov 2012 11:45 am

I've been away so only now catching up on your blogs. Pleased you have survived the crossing. The course sounds interesting. Being time based is it a circular course where loops are counted or do they just set you off pointing south then pick you up after 13.5 hrs where ever you get too?? :-) Had to laugh at your celebrity vomit names. I did a similar thing many years ago but instead of names, did proverbs eg, a vomit in time saves nine.. too many vomits spoil the broth...don't put all your vomits in one basket... The disgusting combinations are almost endless but sure to bring a laugh when one is feeling terrible! Really looking forward to your next update. Take care and have fun xx

22 November 2012 02:03 am (GMT+08:00) Beijing, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Urumqi

In a word. EXCITED.

Fun on Glacier Martial, fun running in Tierra del Fuego National Park, now off for some EXTREME fun in ANTAAARRRRCTICA!  WOO!   Living a dream for an amazing cause!

For my non-facebook friends, this was a recent post:

For those of you whom have seen me excited; please let it rise for several hours, add 500mls of red bull, two desert spoons of jumbo jellybeans, a splash of unknown beauty, and a penguin on the top ....that is how excited I anticipate being about boarding that boat tomorrow - to ANTAAAARCTIIIICAAAA with Team Born to Run!!!! WAHOOO! It feels almost surreal!!

Look forward to hearing from you all X

Comments: Total (2) comments

Steve Young

Posted On: 28 Nov 2012 07:13 pm

Well you're doin'all white then! But what about wind burn and all, that sounds uncomfortable. Sent a couple of mails that have simply "disappeared" and godknows what I wrote now! I suspect that the euphoria and re bull mirth remains even though I read that the team was finding the terrain tough in respect of sticking together. Wotta team though; I guess it's all for one and one for all, or somthing like that! Keep enjoyment at high levels there on the ice!

Dennis Wylie

Posted On: 26 Nov 2012 08:20 am

congratulations on finishing stage 1 in 2nd pos! How far you have come...