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Atacama Crossing Blogs 2018
11
PostsAtacama Crossing (2018) blog posts from Iris Derke
12 October 2018 02:31 am (GMT-05:00) Eastern Time(US & Canada)
POCKETS OF TIME: in Patagonia my theme was a running speed of “slow as shit” or rather “Patagonia speed” meaning that I wouldn't run out of "gas" and be able to keep on going and going. This year, Atacama provided a completely different terrain of challenges, much more mental that I had ever expected. My theme this year was POCKETS OF TIME. Whenever I could I pockettime......straight road? Run it, don't walk, and get ahead of the cut off time. Checkpoint? Do you really need to stop, take of your pack and sit? Nope = fill up on water and pocket some more time to use when the terrain gets really tough and slows you down. And you know what? It worked. Days 1 through 4 I had the cut off times and trail sweepers distant in my rear view mirror. It kept me pushing, nothing like I did last year, running, pushing, getting ahead everywhere I physically could without fear of running out of gas. Push push push. Pocket pocket pocket. I joked with Ernie from Chicago all along the way about how full our pockets were making us rich and relaxed that we were ahead of the game. He got it —- and would yell it out to me as he jogged past encouraging me to dig my hands deep in to my pockets and fill er up. Because we knew the flip side all too well --- when you do run out of gas, or are staring at a huge sand dune going straight up and knowing full well that this is going to take a loooooong time to accomplish.
It was Day 4 though - the killer day —- when I found that my pockets were sewn shut, like when you first get a suit from the store and your hands slip down your hip not finding the usual welcoming pocket to give your hand safety. No pockets available, and damn it, no opportunities to fill them with time. Hard hard day....... The gift was Day 5/6 on thru the end when cut off times were so distant there was no need to worry. My pockets were ballooning with time and funnily enough, that push stayed put. No stopping at checkpoints for long, and an ongoing drive to get thru the miles. My body bounced back, found new strength daily, and pulled me through and gave me such a strong sense of accomplishment. I will always relish my pockets! Especially as I crossed the finish line feeling so strong and just plain happy.
NEXT TIME NOTES (or for those considering or planning for Atacama). A few notes I jotted down - things that would have made life easier now that I can look backwards:
- all food to ziplocks. Don’t keep them in the expedition packaging - too much space and heavy. Transfer at the hotel (take out the little freshner packet - you will be so tired at night that there's no need to have to think of an additional thing). Then use a hot pocket to hold the ziplock when warming (the size of a CD mailer). Thank you Dean - genius idea! One hot pocket to use for ALL ziplocks on the race.
- Pop a few paper towels in with your kit. Cups and spork got mighty disgusting. A quick wipe would have made all the difference and they can be reused.
- Missed my knuckle nights for the Long March (in addition to the headlamp).
- LOTION. OMG. How could I have NOT brought lotion. Unbelievable dry.....face, hands, and so on. LIPS - ouch!
- I might consider an air mattress next time and keep all in my pack.
- Need to find a lighter solar charger.
- Worth bringing a cheap light watch in addition to my Garmin. Didn’t want to waste the juice and would have been helpful in early mornings and late evenings.
- Check out other packs. I like my OMM but Raid Light looked like it worked great for the female racers. Better spread of weight and not so big when on back. Straps comfortable.
- Lightweight gloves to go with my poles (oh how I love my poles). My hands seriously brown (maybe burnt?). My miss on packing - I had them in Patagonia and should have brought them. Serious chafing on hands from the handle loops (ALWAYS loop on your hands when climbing up or down, if you let go you know that you still have your poles with you and it doesn't fall down the hill!).
- Bring a few large garbage bags to leave in the hotel to help with clean up when you return at the end of the race. Can be used as tarp, for packing, or just to throw out a lot of garbage!
- More more protection from sun: longer bill on my hat. Sunscreen stick in addition to lotion for quick recoverages throughout the day.
- Add an extra day or two and arrive early to adjust to the altitude changes. Running is very different than skiing and I, along with many many others, truly felt the challenges for the first day or two.
- Thank god for the last minute advice: brought my extra thermal shirt - it was FREEZING the first few nights. Less socks - you don’t need a pair a day. Worked just fine for me. And yeah, you may not need a fresh pair of underwear daily - personal choice:-)
09 October 2018 03:39 am (GMT-05:00) Eastern Time(US & Canada)
I have pages of notes, thoughts, random scribbles that I am trying to interpret now that I am home - and as promised, sharing here. As mentioned to me last night upon my arrival - "Your blog just stopped!". So, I guess I owe an explanation.....it was an amazing moment on Stage 4 - yes, one of many, but this was huge. When one's mind truly takes over and decides what the body will do, and what the next outcome will be.
It was the end of a very long day, probably the most challenging for me on Stage 4. It was an 11 hour 35 minute day for me....in unbelievable heat, terrain, salt flats. At about 12 miles from camp, I hit the wall. A BIG WALL, one that was probably seen and heard from outer space as my body slammed in to it. No gas in the gas tank - no will to trudge on - nothing, nada, pfffffft. I dragged on and my thinking went from push push push to visions of a "W" next to my name indicating Withdrawn. My conversations including words like "Atacama kicked my butt" and so on; you get the idea. It made me sad, defleated - how could it all end at this moment and on this day.....
It was at that moment that I did something I have NEVER EVER done in my entire running career.....as a "meditation" runner who enjoys the sounds around me I don't run with music and often have people look at me in disbelief when I share that. Its just the way I am wired with so much "input" all day and night ever day in a NYC hyper way. So my running remains the protected zone. Well, I broke down at that "moment" when I was in such a deep hole, and pulled out my iphone. I had to stare at it awhile to remember how to turn it on and work it --- and after a week of being sick and losing my voice, I croaked out to Siri to help me; well, she gave me the finger and had no idea who I was, so she wasn't in to helping me. Screw her. Finally I tapped correctly and hit play, not knowing what the hell I had in there because I never use it for music. I only hoped it wasn't Barber's Adagio for Strings, traditionally used for very sad moments; often death (!) - ha, would have been fitting for my curling up in a fetal position in the middle of the desert. I don't know how ---- but my playlist of 1970's Rock Songs blared out from the phone (no buds for me - hell, there wasn't a living thing anywhere around me to bug!) --- "Bye Bye Ms. American Pie" crooning away.....and that's when it happened. The sun began to set behind the clouds, the air immediately cooling.....my hands began to drum away, and I croaked out the lyrics. My speed picked up and as I did, with the wind begining to whip around me, cooling my body, the most amazing rainbow appeared directly ahead of me. Hell, I don't know how or what happened - but I began to run, and wouldn't you believe, I clipped 5 people who looked at me in shock as I passed yelling "Hola" and thumping to my music. "American Woman" blaring as my theme song; The WHO, Led Zeppelin - all of my bad boy favorites energizing me forward. What was an absolute hell turned in to a childhood memory of driving through the desert with my family - the windows rolled down on our VW van and the exact same music blaring as we sang along and breathed in the beautiful dry and warm air, except here I was on my feet and feeling on top of the world. It was incredible. Truly incredible. Just as I was to turn in to camp following the happy pink flags that mark the trail, I saw that Mike from the US had missed the turn off. My voice was 100% gone so I started clapping as loud as I could - applauding for him, applauding for me, and he actually heard me. I waved him back my way and with much gratitude he joined as we headed down the final path to camp. The energy was intoxicating because as we saw the finish line and people cheering us in to camp I started to sprint and coaxed Mike along to join me ---- we laughed and cheered and crossed that damn finish line for Stage 4 as fast as we could - well before any cut off times, and with a strength that made me feel so alive and knowing that I had even more to give; that which would carry me through the remaining days of the race. Incredible. Mind over body. It gives me chills just thinking of it - I will never forget that moment and am thankful for that incredible hole I was in that allowed me to gain such a height. Here's a photo of that amazing rainbow....one of 3 photos I personally took on the course (again, I don't do that! I revere the unplug and peacefulness). I was so exhausted and exhilirated that night that I just wanted to be with people and shirked the cybertent which only had a few minutes for me anyhow. That led to the Long March, and the incredible need to rest when I could......so here I am catching up if anyone is still reading now, or for the future! (Thanks for doing so!)
04 October 2018 08:31 am (GMT-04:00) Santiago
Hi all…. From the other side. Wasn’t able to get online Wednesday because of a very long day at the office now called Stage Four. Anyhow, jumping on now to say that all appendages are well attached and I have smile permanently planted in my face.
Started at 8am yesterday and was thrilled to come in to camp just as night became day at 6am. The blood orange crescent moon was breathtaking as it quickly rose above the clouded sky and the lights of San Pedro glimmered in the distance. My hallucinations presented themselves as predicted…. How could they not after so many hours in incredible heat and challenge?. More on all of that later when I can keep my eyes open. For now, everyone in camp, although looking like something from the walking/living dead, have the most peaceful and sublime faces of happiness and satisfaction showing. Never mind the limping nor the bloody feet and gashes…. Well, I will stop there. Way too many story lines going thru my head…..much fodder for future writing!
Tomorrow is around 11k to the true finish but we all know we made it…. Much celebration to come including pizza! I haven’t been able to get into see all emails and blog comments but will catch up when I return to civilization. Lots of love to everyone…..i miss you too but have such tales to share. Oh my god.
Comments: Total (2) comments
Diane Derke
Posted On: 06 Oct 2018 06:41 pm
Ilana Varnavin-livni
Posted On: 05 Oct 2018 11:14 pm
02 October 2018 12:55 pm (GMT-04:00) Santiago
Oh my goodness….i was told that today would be one of the most challenging and often called hump day. I’d insert a few expletives here if I could but the censors will get me…..#$@%&\_)15-38!!!!!!!!!! What a hellof a day. Incredibly long desert walks……. Sand dunes up and down and terrain rocky and uneven and like walking on the moon. No face plants for me…..unlike Patagonia where the consequences included a face full of mud or worse, dung, we are talking serious repurcusions in atacama. Prickly cactus bushes and sharp uneven desert rock and mud. The thought of going down is not allowed….. so Mr A Wiggins is at it again. Used the slower method to navigate the tricky bits. My method of ‘pocket time’ now gleefully used by others in the race consists of running when you can to pocket the extra minutes. Not stopping at the checkpoints except for water fills another pocket of time and voilà…… hit a rough tough patch and dig in to your pocket and you have the time and sanity to focus on one step at a time.
A gigantic sand dune needed to be climbed to get to camp today. The drum beats at the entrance and the cheering volunteers and other participants pushed me to top. Its such a great feeling to be welcomed back….. and then at the tent as everyone share stories. I have to say, these are the folks you want in your lifeboat. They are kind, generous, humane, and know how to save the world with duct tape and superglue. Something as extreme as this kind of event brings together people from all walks of life and from all over the globe. 109 of us here in the desert plus an incredible group of volunteers and race management…… it’s a truly special thing and I count myself lucky.
Thank you thank you for all of the emails and blog comments!!! Wow, so great to hear from so many people including Patagonia race alum. Right back atchya all!!!! Hugs and kisses to R, E, and H! and baby steps it is……
#29 signing off and diving in to freeze dried chicken tikka and some bark chocolate I am hoping hasn’t melted…..
Comments: Total (11) comments
Ilana Varnavin-livni
Posted On: 05 Oct 2018 11:20 pm
Jason Mlynek
Posted On: 05 Oct 2018 07:31 pm
Kim Wetzel
Posted On: 05 Oct 2018 07:12 pm
Kadeem Jeudy
Posted On: 05 Oct 2018 07:04 pm
Vivian Irizarry
Posted On: 05 Oct 2018 03:13 pm
Justin Zang
Posted On: 05 Oct 2018 01:41 pm
Siegfried Derke
Posted On: 04 Oct 2018 06:49 pm
Diane Derke
Posted On: 04 Oct 2018 02:23 pm
Sam Fanshawe
Posted On: 04 Oct 2018 10:03 am
Rob Derke
Posted On: 04 Oct 2018 02:36 am
Ella Derke
Posted On: 04 Oct 2018 02:09 am
01 October 2018 12:48 pm (GMT-04:00) Santiago
Wow. That was a tough one. Rumour mill says that each day will get progressively harder and longer. Lovely. At least my body and mind is getting the message and each day we will just have to dig deeper and deeper.
First off – thank you everyone for the emails and blog comments!! Definite fuel for my tank. I’m feeding on your words before I even eat, unpack and settle in. And disclaimer: emails and blog comments are read quickly on one master excel sheet that contains messages for everyone in camp. Then to the road warrior keyboard that requires hammering the keys to get a letter. So apologies for typos and limited time and heaps and heaps of words I only wish I could capture on my 15 minutes at the cyber tent. So happy to read all of your word…. Family and work! You guys rock.
23 miles today with the kicker being the slot canyons with much climbing beside the river and then walking right through the raging waters….. to the Valley of Death. Which I think should be renamed to thru Valley of someone’s death….. well, at least not mine.
Llamas running beside me yelling ‘what a slow poke’
A gaggle of bleating sheep, yelling goats and llamas crossing were seen today. Thank you rob and Ella for providing me with a big laugh reminiscent of YouTube clips of goats screaming. Google it if you’ve never seen it. Its worth the laugh.
Highlights:
* Flying down sand dunes. My kid time in la of running down hills came in really handy today, especially trekking through so much damn sand!
* There was also a long tunnel giving relief from the heat and sun.
* Frozen feet in the raging rivers to 100 degrees in the open idesert.
Time to go. Another challenge tomorrow.
Xoxoxo
Comments: Total (11) comments
Ilana Varnavin
Posted On: 05 Oct 2018 11:23 pm
Vivian Irizarry
Posted On: 03 Oct 2018 03:31 pm
Vivian Irizarry
Posted On: 03 Oct 2018 03:29 pm
Andrea Niederman
Posted On: 03 Oct 2018 03:20 pm
Siegfried Derke
Posted On: 02 Oct 2018 05:56 pm
Seth McCay
Posted On: 02 Oct 2018 04:14 pm
Diane Derke
Posted On: 02 Oct 2018 12:59 pm
Gina C
Posted On: 02 Oct 2018 12:28 pm
Jerry Gross
Posted On: 02 Oct 2018 03:21 am
Danut Gross
Posted On: 02 Oct 2018 02:21 am
Ella D
Posted On: 02 Oct 2018 01:07 am
30 September 2018 01:08 am (GMT-04:00) Santiago
Well, Day 1 the Atacama Desert yelled “Hey you! Whatever you thought you trained for forget it. We are playing by my rules or else you go home!”. Rough day that stretched everyone in their own way.
It was icey cold this morning and then some. Everyone complaining of a difficult night between the cold and snoring tent mates. I did just fine with the cold but was up hourly and finally gave up and joined the crew at 430 to enjoy the fire some coffee and some awesome humour. Quite a crowd here this round. I ended up with a gaggle of Swiss round the fire last night and enjoyed so many stories and jokes, bad and good. We are predicting that by the end of the week the language will become more crass and the stories more intense. Great fun.
The start line was full of many just wanting to get started as our toes were frozen solid. It was a beautiful beginning with canyons and morning sun. I found myself enjoying all of the beautiful rocks throughout and picked up at least a hundred with my mind…. But no go with the weight! I learned so much at the meteorite museum in San Pedro before we left that I found myself looking for asteroids and meteorites. We can only hope to see one hitting the earth during this week…. And I swear I found superman kryptonite!
For me the climbing up and down paired with rocks that just love to turn just as you step on them were quite challenging. My pack came in at 11k without water so the literal monkey on my back added not just humour but challenge. One face plant later a cloud of impressive red brown dust enveloped me like pig pen from Charlie Brown. As it settled I leapt to my feet and kept on running. No worries as I now had my one fall out of the way. My tactic on the mountain climbing can be attributed to “Mr. A Wiggins” from the Carol Burnett Show. Those who know get it….. needless to say I embraced caution as there is not much room if you make a mistake. That included my graceful butt slide down a hill of rocks. Not exactly a Grace Kelly move but I made it and woo hooed at the bottom with glee.
Well, I’m pooped and many days to go. In honour of Patagonia last year we have nightly dinner reservations (thank you Lynne) so its time for some freeze dried mac and cheese.
Lots of love to everyone at home. Miss you guys. How was track Ella? Did you run like the wind? And yes, I crawled through 2 tunnels today! Lu. Hs
Comments: Total (8) comments
Jeff Binner
Posted On: 01 Oct 2018 07:42 pm
Reshma Amin
Posted On: 01 Oct 2018 04:04 pm
Morgan Yachinich
Posted On: 01 Oct 2018 03:30 pm
Andrea Niederman
Posted On: 01 Oct 2018 03:26 pm
Diane Derke
Posted On: 01 Oct 2018 02:43 pm
Rob Derke
Posted On: 01 Oct 2018 10:18 am
Ella D
Posted On: 01 Oct 2018 10:07 am
Danuta Gridd
Posted On: 01 Oct 2018 03:47 am
29 September 2018 12:54 pm (GMT-04:00) Santiago
Made it to base camp and it is absolutely stunning. Rainbow Valley is well named with rock formations of all colors and otherworldly slices, crevices…looking like gigantic works of art, each unique from the next. The bus ride complete with a stop to take in the vistas and packs of llamas staring as our caravan drives past. Tent #14 looks to be chill with only 6 of us radiating out from the middle pole – sleeping bags a kaleidoscope of colors like a maypole. A Chilean world band welcomed us beautifully with pan pipes soaring above the chatter of participants as everyone found their places and began gathering round the fires already blazing to warm our dinners and as we are cold, our frozen bums tonite. Its supposed to be very cold…..I will be thanking my puffy coat and sleeping bag, that’s for sure. Time to gather and hear the stories of 109 runners from 36 countries (I believe). See you tomorrow!
Comments: Total (1) comments
Maggie Latona
Posted On: 01 Oct 2018 03:37 pm
29 September 2018 01:36 am (GMT-05:00) Eastern Time(US & Canada)
Sept 29 Saturday
Couldn’t sleep last night. Vicki, my uk roommate, says the same. Somewhere between anticipation of getting the race started already and relishing a soft bed, pillow, and knowing that there is a hot shower paces away probably was keeping me naturally caffeinated with thoughts and conversations in my head for several hours. The buzz and anticipation from everyone quite obvious in the breakfast room this morning as we arrived 10 minutes prior to breakfast officially opening. Gaging by the pile of coffee cups and trash I think there were many participants up even earlier and rewarded at least with a cup of tea or coffee! Vicki and I played the flag game this morning trying to identify all of the patches in the room. Gold star to Vicki for nailing Malaysia!
Yesterday was an enjoyable time at a Q and A with a participant by the name of Ash who is starting his 10th time at Atacama. A very full hour of advice, questions and a lot of humor. Interesting to see so many types of runners approaching this week from differing perspectives — from the achievement of fast speeds to those (like me) focused on enjoying the “ride” and making sure to see the finish line. Stories of staying in the middle of the road while going thru a mine field (true!) to 5k of trudging through water certainly got everyone pumped up for an unusual if not challenging journey ahead. The intensity of the rock flats and the tricky terrain of unevenness, sharp edges (and so on) is probably the most daunting for me right now but stay tuned....(dum dum dum goes the music). Everyday looks to bring its own stories! Time to sign off from civilization with backpack check ins underway and a 2 hour bus ride ahead of us. #29 signing off...see you from the cyber tent (and hey family - if it’s a really loooong day I may very well miss my shot at the cyber tent in the evening so don’t worry if I miss a daily post! The race organizers are beyond fantastic and are already looking after us so well. With 109 participants this round if feels so much cozier than the 300+ at Patagonia. Lots of updates promised on the Racing the Planet website daily including finishes for each stage and photos).
Comments: Total (1) comments
Danut Gtiss
Posted On: 30 Sep 2018 01:40 am
28 September 2018 10:50 am (GMT-05:00) Eastern Time(US & Canada)
Sept 28 FRIDAY
What do you do before your morning coffee at 5am? Unpack your backpack and see what else you can cut! Then a check on temps - 45 degrees - a grab of my beloved puffy coat and out to watch the colors of the sky change as the sun comes up. What a beautiful and peaceful place. The sounds of the town stray dogs crowing (or rather barking), the crisp air, and the smells of fireplaces lingering from the night before. It looks to be a good day!
My rookie move for this race is gorilla gluing my gaiters to my running sneakers last night (as opposed to having them stitched). What did I know when i realized that i could no longer feel my fingertips as the glue sweat right through the adhesive as i held it on for dear life. Last night was a mad search online for hints as to how to remove —- nope, no nail polish remover with me - sorry —— file it off, wow, that takes fingerprints too, right? A bit of alcohol, some mad washing with warm water and soap and loads of lotion and I think i may be normal by another day or so. Who knew that an iPhone touch screen wont log your swipes or types when you have super glue on your finger tips? Oh the things you learn when you try new things! I just have to laugh. And say thank you for a Bluetooth separate keyboard for my phone to keep me running.
I see more Race patches and friendly waves and hellos as people arrive. I was thrilled to run in to Karen from Australia last night when I took a stroll to town. We immediately recognized each other from the Patagonia race last year and she shared with me that we are in the same tent! Fabulous! We have 8 in our tent - Karen and I being 2 of 3 ladies. Limited conversations with the evening staff at the Hotel led to chats of how much the love NY and how we have so much great music. The town is like something from the old Wild West — dusty dirt roads, flat abode buildings, doorways opening to small shops of trinkets, groceries and Internet cafes. Lots of old 1980’s tunes playing from the local restaurants and bars intermixed with a church congregation singing hymns loudly —— everyone’s doors and windows opening releasing the beautiful cacophony in to the desert air. A very full moon hanging above lighting the eyes and faces of stray dogs about, faces friendly, tails wagging, although many just taking a snooze anywhere they wish. I cant wait to see it all by day today.
I am including a video of sunrise and barking dogs and hoping the WiFi will whisk it up to you here..... the day ahead is to finalize packing, make sure those gaiters will stick, and an info session from Ash, a runner who has done the Atacama route many many times. I would bet knowledge and advice will ping me to repack yet once again. You all must think me crazy. #29 signing off for now.....
Comments: Total (1) comments
Ilana Varnavin-Livni
Posted On: 28 Sep 2018 03:37 pm
26 September 2018 04:24 am (GMT-05:00) Eastern Time(US & Canada)
For those who have been there, the pack, and repack, and repack again to make sure it all fits, and that you remembered everything can seem like the most challenging part of the whole race! Last year I was in tears before departing for Patagonia with great fears that I would never get everything stuffed in and would have a trail of clothes, food, and items tied together like a trail dragging in the dirt behind me. Fast forward a year and I am happy beyond belief to be well packed (disclaimer: backups and 2nd options are in my suitcase) in my carry on backpack knowing that I have the items that will carry me through the week, especially should my suitcase decide to take a trip to Tahiti instead (note - I am NOT tempting the gods with this challenge!). Of course I will be replaying this exercise all day Friday and Saturday morning prior to the REAL departure and can only hope that my choices in food, nutrition and so on will be right in the groove.
For now a last check of the list, a tending to a sick daughter who despite feeling like crap is thrilled to have hours with me at home this morning questioning every item I am packing ("Toilet paper mom??? Really??") and making sure that my chocolate bark treats are included to make me happy at the end of very long days. Work is buzzing and I will do my best to stay plugged through the end of the week before I take the leap into 7 days without any internet, email, texting, etc.....yikes. That is a real challenge nowadays. But, I am looking forward to the short time I hope to get nightly in the cybertent capturing some thoughts of the day on this blog and even more so, reading the blog comments and emails from home --- those fill my gas tank nightly and pull me through the day looking forward to sharing words of the trail, the people around me, and random musings.
Signing off from NYC for now....on to an 11 hour flight to Santiago, Chile, and another 2 hour domestic flight to Calama. 1 hour later, via bus, I should be in San Pedro, Atacama Crossing!

25 September 2018 11:50 am (GMT-05:00) Eastern Time(US & Canada)
So take off is tomorrow.....about a year since Patagonia's great adventure and it's hard to believe I'm about to hit repeat and do it again. I'm definitely in a different head than last year which was surrounded by first time worries, but the challenges of time (never enough between work, family, home, and me, which in this case means MILES) has presented itself as this year's theme. The upswing is the confidence in my well-tested gear from last year, my familiarity with the extremes that lay ahead, and knowing, from re-reading my Patagonia daily notes, that it all boils down to one foot in front of the other. I have many blog entries that still need to make it to this wall, but for now, hollering a hello to the vast internet, and most especially to all those wonderful people around the globe who are packing/stuffing/jamming it all in to their backpacks this week --- good luck - I can't wait to see you in Atacama!
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Comments: Total (3) comments
Mary Gadams
Posted On: 17 Oct 2018 05:55 am
Ernie T
Posted On: 16 Oct 2018 12:47 am
Sam F
Posted On: 14 Oct 2018 03:54 am